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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 08-08-2008, 06:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Erratic blower 318ti 1995

My Ac blower is sporadic, slow then fast, off then on. I replace the microfilters but that did not help. I have read that on high the resistor pack is bypassed so if I have erratic operation on all settings that would mean it is not the resistor pack probably?

I have heard you can clean the contracts on the rotary switch and I will go look at that now and see if I can access the contacts.

I just want to start digging in the right place and dont want to waste money on a resistor pack if it could be an obstruction on the blower fan blades or just the whole blower in general.

I have also heard there is a ccu capacitor that can be an easy fix to check for but dont know where to start.

I hope Bentley is correct for resistor pack location for 318ti. It is different for the microfilters on the 318ti and I dont want to get misled again.
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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are you sure that isn't the climate control system doing it's job?
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This is a 318ti and you can not set a temp like on the M3. If it did have a system for climate control and you might be right; then when it had been hot in the sun all day it would not cycle but would run straight on full until it cooled down right?

Thanks for getting back but it has never cycled before for the ten years I have had it. I am going to see if I have some contact cleaner. I noticed if you take off the knob for the control there is a phillips head screw, maybe I will get lucky and the contacts in the rotary switch are dirty.
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Smile

hmmm.. blower operation on your car will still be controlled by the IKHA module... which to my mind has to do with climate control.

i would take a voltage to the blower to rule out blower motor fault; and then kinda look in the IKHA module direction if blower motor checks out.

Good Luck.

Last edited by darkhorse737; 08-08-2008 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Maybe you are right, I do not understand it all that well. After some research it sounds like resistor pack problems are pretty common. I got one from Autohaus Arizona for $32 shipped and will try that first.

I am hoping this will be the problem, the easy fix.

I just dont feel like digging around under the plenum and air collector again to get to the blower after doing the micros the other day.

Thanks Darkhorse, I will try to remember to let you know how it goes.
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinheap View Post
Maybe you are right, I do not understand it all that well. After some research it sounds like resistor pack problems are pretty common. I got one from Autohaus Arizona for $32 shipped and will try that first.

I am hoping this will be the problem, the easy fix.

I just dont feel like digging around under the plenum and air collector again to get to the blower after doing the micros the other day.

Thanks Darkhorse, I will try to remember to let you know how it goes.
..i know wha you mean bro. I do not like reaching under the dashboard to make repairs either. *dread.

Good Luck to you.
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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so is it the resistor pack? please update us thanks in advance
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Old 09-14-2008, 10:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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My plan now is to retest the blower for a longer period of time. If it seems okay then I will put in a new resistor pack. I read you can clean brushes on the blowers too you knows.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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if its your resistor pack then just replace the thermal fuse.. located outsde the pack.. look for thermal fuse with 240-260 deg celcius capacity and replace it. it works with mine.. it only cost .50 usd to fix you resistor pack
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Where do you find the thermal fuse and could you not check the thermal fuse by bypassing it?

While you are there; is a 12 v battery charger a good source of power to test a blower anyway? Why test it if I do not do it right.

This project may not happen right away but I want to get my ducks all in a row. I have control arms to put on my 318ti also and that will be my first task.

Thanks for getting back with me on this post and I will keep you informed.
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Old 09-16-2008, 02:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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check your blower by
1. check if what setting your problem occurs.. set it to 1,2,3.
2.then set it to number 4, number 4 is the bypass mode. the current doesnt pass thru the resisitor pack so it should continuously blow and no slow and fast mode.
if the problem is not in the resistor pack. then it maybe somewhere else.
its ok to check with your 12v current.
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, I heard that before about the bypass. I will probably be yanking the thing but I will give it a good test first.

Mine is erratic at all settings.
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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ok then.. just keep us updated with your project.. good luck
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Same or similar problem

Hi guys, I have almost the same problem where heat only comes out when at level 4. The mecanic tried 3 resistor blowers from different sources and couldn't get it fixed. Apparently he can't get the right part delivered for the TI. Anyways, I decided to do this project myself. Can anyone help please ? I need to find out the location of the blower and how to get to it. My car is 318TI. Thanks in advance.
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