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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 09-30-2008, 11:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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E36 325i Rear Brake Rattle

Hi everyone, im new here and after some help! Recently changed the rear pads and rotors on my E36 325i Coupe. They seem to do a lot of rattling over humps but when i apply the brakes this rattling stops. Ive had a look at the pads, which it seems to be and they move around unless the brakes are apllied. It is just the outer pads though. Can anyone suggest a quick fix to stop the rattling or do i need to purchase some new pads???!!! Many thanks
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by g8jka View Post
Hi everyone, im new here and after some help! Recently changed the rear pads and rotors on my E36 325i Coupe. They seem to do a lot of rattling over humps but when i apply the brakes this rattling stops. Ive had a look at the pads, which it seems to be and they move around unless the brakes are apllied. It is just the outer pads though. Can anyone suggest a quick fix to stop the rattling or do i need to purchase some new pads???!!! Many thanks
Did you grease your pistons, I dont think you did and are on the verge of siezed calipers, take them off again, go to you local motor store and ask or some caliper grease ( do not use normal grease), Ok, now you have them off 1 at a time ( not both), get some one to gently press the brake pedal until the piston comes out about 1 3/4 inches, you will see rubber sock around piston, get a flat, lets say plastic bbq( nothing metal) knife with loads of grease on and put inside the rubber around the piston, then compress piston, pump out, keep doing this for 4 or 5 times each side, or until they go in & out both sides smoothly, once this has been done, replace all and remember to grease up the back of the pads.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply! I greased everything up with anti-seize grease before putting back together. If i put my hand onto the pad it will move up and down and doesnt seem to fit firmly into the caliper, its like the little hooks at the top and bottom that hold the pad into the caliper are to small and dont fit snug. The calipers are definatly not seized. If i grease the back of the pads it will cure the problem for a day or two but then it comes back!
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ah! have you fitted OEM or BMW pads, if you have fitted OEM then this is where your problem is!!!, I fitted OEM and a day later went to BM need I say anymore?
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeh they are OEM pads i think not genuine, are they a different size and do all OEM pads do the same thing?
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No not all but some do, as they are from china etc. you are a BMW owner always go BM parts they will always last 5 times longer and fit perfect, even though the cost is only slightly higher, but believe me in the end BM are cheaper. Its like buy a DEWALT drill or buy one from rolson, over five years you will buy approx 7 rolsons + batts ( $50 each), dewalt you buy one, lasts 7 years costs $200, all the above is approx prices, but I think you know where im coming from!, I purchased a water pump for my 7 in $ 210 with metal impelars, oem $190 with plastc impelars, which one did I go for ????
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Haha, i know what you mean, got a dewalt drill myself and would never buy anything other than dewalt now so its worth paying that little bit more. Thanks for your help im off to find some genuine pads now!
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