Driver Side Door Lock Getting Stubborn - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-13-2005, 03:45 PM
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I have a '94 318is. I recently took it into the body shop to have work done on a dent in the driver side door. The guy I took it to took forever and ended up keeping the car for two weeks. When I got it back the door looked great but a few thing were bothering me--one thing was he broke my cup holder the other was that when I open my driver side door sometime the key has a hard time turning kind of like the lock gets stuck.

There are a few things I thought of: the first was that in the two weeks he had the car I am sure it was parked outside and it rained heavily for one week straight--is it possible that heavy rain could have messed up or rusted the lock inside?

Second, he used a white putty like substance on the door that he didn't clean very well because some got under the door handle. Is it possible that some of this substancve got in the lock, and is causing the problem.

Or is all this coincidence, and is it more likely that a eleven year old door lock is starting to fail. I am just curious because I want to confront him about this, and just want to see if this stubborn lock problem is common or not. If it is common perhaps it is not his fault.

Thank you.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-13-2005, 04:09 PM
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No coincidence. It appears as if he delivered you a car with faulty repairs. Take it back and have him fix the locking mechanism to the condition it was in prior to your giving him the car. Secondly, have him replace the cupholder he broke. All of this additional work should be done at no charge. If he balks and you paid with a credit card, call the card issuer and have them reverse the payment.

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#3 (permalink) Old 01-13-2005, 05:47 PM
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My door lock is starting to get how you described I figure I just need a new locking mechanism... but I'm sure it is expensive...
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-13-2005, 06:43 PM
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whould a little WD40 work? mine seems a little sticky too.

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#5 (permalink) Old 01-14-2005, 03:14 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking WD-40 as well, but I am not sure if that will hurt it.
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-14-2005, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ultraviolet353@Jan 14 2005, 04:14 PM
Yeah, I was thinking WD-40 as well, but I am not sure if that will hurt it.
[snapback]271674[/snapback]
WD-40 simply removes water/moisture.
"WD" in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement.
Simply removing the water doesn't lubricate the lock mechanism.

For lubricating the lock mechanisms, what you need is a
grease that can stand up to low temperatures. White Lithium
grease works great. Ask at your local auto parts store.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-14-2005, 04:42 PM
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Since it rained, WD40 probably won't hurt since it displaces moisture.

What I got from other websites:

"LOCK CYLINDERS

When necessary, apply a thin film of Spray White Lubricant or equivalent, directly to key. Insert key into lock and actuate several times. Wipe excess lubricant from key.

Particular attention should be given to external lock cylinders during fall and winter months to insure protection from water and ice."

---and-----

"Doubt whether anything is broken and needing replacing. Have had a similar recurring problem with my '60. It has been in the family since new. Have always been able to correct the "dry lock" problem by freeing up with liberal application of WD-40 to the entire mechanism and then shooting in some spray lith-grease for longer lasting lube effect. I remember the panic I felt the first time my door would not close, about twenty years ago, on the passenger side. Since then, all three of the seldom used doors have presented the problem at one time or another. Each responded well to the treatment recommended above and without having to remove a door panel. Just clean up any over-spray so it does not collect dirt"


I would take it back to the guy and request the fixes. If he doesn't fix it, file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and the State License Board. You can find out his business license number and official business name by calling City Hall. You can point out this as an alternative to not fixing your car. Just don't take your car back to the guy. If you have to pay someone else to fix his work, keep the reciepts, send him a letter and a copy of the receipsta and request reimbursement. If he doesn't send you any money, file a small claim case against him.

In the future, never leave your car for two weeks with anyone. They are incompetent business people who don't car about their clients. Why put up with nonsense like that?

PS: Just my .02.

You have to decide the best alternative for yourself.


Good luck.

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#8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2005, 02:56 AM
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the outside handle of my passanger door completly doesn't work, and my locking system on the driver side doesnt' work, and the handle on the outside of the driver side is really touch and go. I've almost been locked out a few times now and have to lock my car from the trunk. Not gunna mess with this one, gunna have a shop look at it. ive had the interior door panneling off and i can see the whole mech. from inside but i can't see whats wrong with the handles not catching.

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#9 (permalink) Old 01-15-2005, 07:37 PM
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My driver's side lock freezes up in the winter, i have used on this car and previous cars a graphite dust that is for locks. It is not a liquid so does not freeze up as bad. You just shoot a little bit of it in there and turn the lock a bunch. Seems to work although the first couple of times you take your key out make sure you wipe it off with your hand otherwise you may get graphite in your pockets and such.


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