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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 08-16-2008, 07:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Door locks not working, done searches, but windows do work

Hey folks I've done alot alot alot ALOT of searches.

I have also went through the steps of narrowing down the problem.

Here is the problem. My wife's BMW 328i '96 auto has some door lock issues. Almost a year ago an aftermarket alarm system was installed. I was weary about this. BMW dealer also said the cars do not get along with AM alarm systems.

Well yesterday the doorlocks no longer lock or unlock with the alarm system. The back passenger doors stay locked. I can not unlock them with alarm or manually. I cannot pull handle either.

I do not know if the trunk will unlock manually because she was sold the car with only the ignition/door key not the master key. But it is locked none the less

The gas cap which usually never closes for some reason now is almost dead bolted shut.

The driver's and front passenger's door will unlock manually only if done seperately.

If I am driving in the car, I will hear the solenoids in the car doors popping and a relay going off. I can tell they are trying to work. I check the fuses for the central locking system and replaced them just in case.

I tried to do all the little tricks off this site and bimmerforums.com

I took the dash/glovebox apart also. Located the Central Locking System Relay I believe. It is a green relay? Well when I pulled it out. None of the solenoids were popping sound in the doors anymore. So I believe this is the right relay. The metal legs of the relay look a little burnt.

Another issue is the CD player had the power cut when I drove it to Advanced Auto to pull codes, but was working whent he wife drove it to the house for me to check it out. I pulled the CD player out pulled the harness, gave it a sec and plugged it back in and it began to work fine again.

The Alarm, Central Locking, and CD player are all interconnected. I am telling my wife it's the damn alarm system causing the issues. The alarm installers are blaming the car.

From what I understand it is not the Central Body Electronic Module because the windows work fine.

And when I do the key in door lock trick all the windows will go up fine. Everything works fine electronically in the car. The door locks sound like they are trying to lock and unlock but it's like they are being overridden by a relay or wiring.

Oh yes and another thing I can not lock the car from the inside, nor unlock any of the doors by pulling the knobs. I can only lock and unlock with the key in the lock.

Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 08-16-2008, 07:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cool

get rid of the aftermarket alarm and then let us see...

diagnosing your probs via the books will be useless if the AM circuits interfere with what your car's DME/ECU views as "normal"

On a lighter side, let's laugh a little
RE: your post in part reads: "...The alarm installers are blaming the car." No pun intended, but what are we to do? get rid of the alarm to save the car?... or get rid of the car to save the alarm? hehehehe

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Old 08-16-2008, 08:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Talking

...another shot at your prob.

your car battery is beginning to fail causing erratic ops in your electrical system and/or the alarm battery on your key fob has gone bad.

Cheers
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have found some type of little black module with a copper rod coming out of it and it says on it

Directed
HF Plus

Maybe apart of the alarm?
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by darkhorse737 View Post
...another shot at your prob.

your car battery is beginning to fail causing erratic ops in your electrical system and/or the alarm battery on your key fob has gone bad.

Cheers
Thanks for all the tips.

The battery is brand new.

Here is the thing. It could be a battery issue, ever since these guys installed the system it has had some electrical quirks.

Like the negative wire will weld onto the negative post now.

Electrical diagnostic shows everything fine and no issues with grounding. But anytime I have ever dealt with aftermarket builds and the NEGATIVE would weld there was a ground issue.

If the ignition is going bad, could this cause the locks to constantly lock?

I swear I think it's this alarm place that screwed up the electrical.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes now that I look Directed is the antenna for the alarm.

If the alarm tabs that lock/unlock the car get wet could they send a mixed signal to the car to constantly lock?

I check the batteries on them and it looked fine. I pulled them out and made sure the batteries were clean and any connections were good.

Hmm?
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Possible solution

I had a similar problem with a car I purchased from a friend. He, of course, made no mention of it when I went to get it. Anyway, long story short, I took off the interior door panel and the automatic doorlock actuator (the thing inside the door responsible for locking and unlocking the door, and possibly the noise you keep hearing clicking) had been attached improperly.

My friend bought the car used and I'm pretty sure that it was a repo. But he drove it around and had fun. There are numerous signs of an AM car alarm at one time being installed, and later various components were removed. Anyway, it's entirely possible that, if the guys installing the car alarm system had to take off the door panels to mount their alarm equipment, they did the same thing that happened in mine. I would ask them, and then if they deny it, try taking it to a mechanic you trust and then to a dealer.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i had a problem in that similar situation, but i always locked it from the trunk whenever i would try to lock the door and see the locks pop back up.....maybe it is the aftermarket alarm...but itll be alright, its all worth it in the end..
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Old 03-14-2011, 07:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can be unlocked with various types of locks that are shockproof, unpicked and the mountain of evidence. You might even consider mechanical locks, electronic locks and fingerprint locks, all without a key. Both mechanical and electronic locks use a type of keyboard you press a secret code that can be customized. Both types of door locks keyless entry operation of a safety lock and drop it when you enter the correct code, the mechanical lock is opened manually, while the electronic lock is opened by electrical signals.


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