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|3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.|
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Well I can only post so many pictures so I'll try to 'choose' wisely:
I had hit black Ice and managed to hit the wall of a bridge 2 times. 1st impact was drivers side rear corner bumper and the 2nd was the front drivers side bumper. As you can see the 4th pictures shows the warpage of the metal in front of the rear taillight. There is a small vertical dent on the passenger side 6 inches in front of the rear taillight which is an inch long and less than a 1/4" wide The rear impact was over and up.
After the impact with the car stopped. I got out to inspect the damage, I tore the corner part of the bumper, (rear), off and threw it in my trunk then drove away. The car drives perfectly straight. Letting go of the steering wheel it doesn't veer any which way as well it doesn't make any bad clunking, scratching, or pinging noises. As a matter of fact if you were to get in the car without seeing the damage, you would never know I was in accident. I believe I have only body damage. My rear end took the worst of it. If this wasn't a BMW it would sure be a lot worse I'm sure.
My trunk won't close now because of the impact. I actually thought it looked pretty good all things considering. But the quote I was given by the body shop was 10K, 6K alone was labor hours. So I have some friends I'm asking for help, themselves knowing people in the auto body trade, etc. So my hope is that there is a way for me to get the car repaired...fingers crossed.
Getting it repaired is the question. The rear uni-body is tweaked. The bumpers, you can get aftermarket, used etc. Used is best, like the front bumper would come with the impact absorbers, reinforcement bar, shocks, etc. The rear, well......
You have to find someone that has a frame machine and the uni-body special attachments for BMW to properly tie it down to pull the rear end back over. Unfortunately, the rear parts are all welded on, so it is expensive for parts and expensive labor intensive mig welding work. (It's illegal to use a gas torch welding outfit on this car due to high strength low alloy sheetmetal).
Check with your friends, a lot of shops will work at a discount when they are slow (like the present ecomomy)......... but look to see what it would cost to replace it with an undamaged vehicle.
Might be better off, since it is a 1995 (not knowing how many miles is on it),
the Bluebook here in N. California is roughly $4225/$6875. (with 98,000 miles, less with more miles).
I would buy the car back, find a nice one, and at your leisure, change over the parts or sell or part out or
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