Cooling System Help Needed - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
BMW Forum BMW Forum

» Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E36)
Register Home Forum Active Topics Gallery / Showroom Auto Loans Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance

3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

BimmerWerkz.com is the premier BMW Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-07-2005, 07:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
Neutral Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Car:
Posts: 66
Photos:
vmelikRUS is an unknown quantity at this point
Hi, I was hoping someone could give me their advice. I have a 97 328i w/ manual transmission.

Problems:
1. "check coolant level" illuminates when I shut off the car, regularly.
2. A little Coolant leaks out the coolant tank's cap regularly.
3. Car overheats under extreme tempatures during summer.
4. temp. gauge leans towards the cooler side at high speeds during winter.

Observations:
1. Coolant levels in tank are good.
2. heater/AC work, but do lack in performance.
2. Hoses don't show any leaks, coolant leaks only out of the tank's cap.
3. After car operation, all hoses around the radiator are hot. So are the ones connected between the thermostat.
4. I spinned the radiotor fan, and it has some resistance, not too loose, and not too hard to spin, but I still don't know if the fan clutch is ok.

I know there are several possibilities:
Pump, Thermostat, Clogged Radiator, Fan clutch, ...
I am leaning towards replacing the thermostat, but I need some feedback before I start changing parts. Does anyone know any tests to perform? Do you think a thermostat that is stuck open could produce these things, or something more?

Also: A side problem, I don't know if it relates.
The AC control unit inside my car is having electrical problems. The digital temp. controls have power glitchs regularly, and shut off the blower along with the digital display. They could be every 5 sec. or every 1 hour. However the buttons that select the direction of air flow stay illuminated, but will not toggle back during the glitch interval. I think it could be some relays or fuses, or do you think its connected with the cooling system?

Please help me out if you can. Thank you for any comments you may have.

- VADIM
vmelikRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-07-2005, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
n00b
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Germany
Car:
Posts: 16
Photos:
Cassandra is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally posted by vmelikRUS@Apr 8 2005, 02:19 AM
Hi, I was hoping someone could give me their advice. I have a 97 328i w/ manual transmission.

Problems:
1. "check coolant level" illuminates when I shut off the car, regularly.
2. A little Coolant leaks out the coolant tank's cap regularly.
3. Car overheats under extreme tempatures during summer.
4. temp. gauge leans towards the cooler side at high speeds during winter.

Observations:
1. Coolant levels in tank are good.
2. heater/AC work, but do lack in performance.
2. Hoses don't show any leaks, coolant leaks only out of the tank's cap.
3. After car operation, all hoses around the radiator are hot. So are the ones connected between the thermostat.
4. I spinned the radiotor fan, and it has some resistance, not too loose, and not too hard to spin, but I still don't know if the fan clutch is ok.

I know there are several possibilities:
Pump, Thermostat, Clogged Radiator, Fan clutch, ...
I am leaning towards replacing the thermostat, but I need some feedback before I start changing parts. Does anyone know any tests to perform? Do you think a thermostat that is stuck open could produce these things, or something more?

Also: A side problem, I don't know if it relates.
The AC control unit inside my car is having electrical problems. The digital temp. controls have power glitchs regularly, and shut off the blower along with the digital display. They could be every 5 sec. or every 1 hour. However the buttons that select the direction of air flow stay illuminated, but will not toggle back during the glitch interval. I think it could be some relays or fuses, or do you think its connected with the cooling system?

Please help me out if you can. Thank you for any comments you may have.

- VADIM
[snapback]327889[/snapback]
Either you have shorts on your wiring harness or you have air in your cooling system or BOTH.
Cassandra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2005, 10:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
n00b
 
Ferrahs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Car:
Posts: 17
Photos:
Ferrahs is an unknown quantity at this point
I had roughly the same experiance, you can bleed the coolant system if you think it will help but its going to be the thermostat. If you feel like doing this yourself then start out with the cheapest parts and move your way up to the more expensive and difficult. The thermostat is like $10 and it took me like 1 hour to do it cause it was the first time i did it on this kind of car, if that doesnt work then its probably the water pump, its the plastic one that everyone hates, its a little more difficult but its inevitable to go out. And regarding the ac unit, get it changed, they are commonly known to go out, i changed mine also, eventually it will not come on like mine didl.
Ferrahs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2005, 10:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
Neutral Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Car:
Posts: 66
Photos:
vmelikRUS is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally posted by Ferrahs@Apr 7 2005, 09:35 PM
I had roughly the same experiance, you can bleed the coolant system if you think it will help but its going to be the thermostat. If you feel like doing this yourself then start out with the cheapest parts and move your way up to the more expensive and difficult. The thermostat is like $10 and it took me like 1 hour to do it cause it was the first time i did it on this kind of car, if that doesnt work then its probably the water pump, its the plastic one that everyone hates, its a little more difficult but its inevitable to go out. And regarding the ac unit, get it changed, they are commonly known to go out, i changed mine also, eventually it will not come on like mine didl.
[snapback]328000[/snapback]
Thanks for your confirmation. Do you know if there is a way to check if the water pump is okay, without actually taking out? And I heard some people replace the plastic one with a metal one. Should I do that? I'll be changing the thermostat today or tommorow. I have the feeling it could be the water pump too. I remember I had a gruesome overheat last summer. I left my car running outside, and forgot about it. When I came back the car was the hottest I ever seen before, coolant was evaporating, and it looked like it was gonna blow up. Anything plastic must have melted, but is there an easy check for me to do to determine if the pump is ok. Or is trial and error the best scenario?

Also, does anyone know the best way to check relays? Only with a DMM?

P.S. - Thanks for the help. I think BMW is the only car that has such a LIVELY community. Take care.
vmelikRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2005, 08:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
Neutral Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Queens, New York
Car:
Posts: 71
Photos:
PR325is is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via AIM to PR325is Send a message via Yahoo to PR325is
Quote:
Originally posted by vmelikRUS+Apr 8 2005, 11:16 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(vmelikRUS @ Apr 8 2005, 11:16 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Ferrahs@Apr 7 2005, 09:35 PM
I had roughly the same experiance, you can bleed the coolant system if you think it will help but its going to be the thermostat.* If you feel like doing this yourself then start out with the cheapest parts and move your way up to the more expensive and difficult. The thermostat is like $10 and it took me like 1 hour to do it cause it was the first time i did it on this kind of car, if that doesnt work then its probably the water pump, its the plastic one that everyone hates, its a little more difficult but its inevitable to go out.* And regarding the ac unit, get it changed, they are commonly known to go out, i changed mine also, eventually it will not come on like mine didl.
[snapback]328000[/snapback]
Thanks for your confirmation. Do you know if there is a way to check if the water pump is okay, without actually taking out? And I heard some people replace the plastic one with a metal one. Should I do that? I'll be changing the thermostat today or tommorow. I have the feeling it could be the water pump too. I remember I had a gruesome overheat last summer. I left my car running outside, and forgot about it. When I came back the car was the hottest I ever seen before, coolant was evaporating, and it looked like it was gonna blow up. Anything plastic must have melted, but is there an easy check for me to do to determine if the pump is ok. Or is trial and error the best scenario?

Also, does anyone know the best way to check relays? Only with a DMM?

P.S. - Thanks for the help. I think BMW is the only car that has such a LIVELY community. Take care.
[snapback]328304[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]


well if you go to a regular auto repair shop they would still tell you to change the thermostat and the water pump at the same time... if i were you, you should get the water pump with a metal impeller in it... funny thing is, i replaced my water pump and thermostat last month and my car's overheating again.. yikes!!! i gotta post a new thread for some insights... i think i have to replace the radiator now...
good luck!
PR325is is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2005, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
n00b
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: North Carolina
Car:
Posts: 19
Photos:
new guy is an unknown quantity at this point
Radiator fluid shoul not leak from the "tanks cap." if this is happening, you are not keeping pressure in the system which will lead to overheating, and of course, especially under extreme conditions.

Check cap gasket, bleed system, check fan clutch. Fan clutch is damaged if oil and dirt are found around its shaft.

New Guy
new guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2005, 12:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
n00b
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: North Carolina
Car:
Posts: 19
Photos:
new guy is an unknown quantity at this point
Oh, several more things,

If you overheated your engine, you may have a blown head gasket; do a cylinder pressure check. Otherwise the water pump is only considered "bad" if it leaks around the bushing (where the shaft enters the unit). Of course, it the engine ever runs "cool" you need to change the thermostat.

New Guy
new guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E36)


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Synthetic Oil and filter CiscoKid 3-Series (E36) 47 04-14-2014 06:00 PM
The American Vs. The German billB 5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) 83 10-14-2004 07:09 PM
Cooling system questions broketiltuesday 3-Series (E21, E30) 1 04-05-2004 03:57 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:18 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.