Code 1444, car cranks but will not start - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
#1 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 03:42 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
Code 1444, car cranks but will not start

94 325i 200K miles. Moved the car Thanksgiving day and it would not start Friday am. Couldn't hear the fuel pump priming...checked fuse was good...checked leads to fuel pump and saw current when key turned...replaced fuel pump...still don't hear it "priming"...still cranks but doesn't start...disconnected fuel line at rail and get fuel moving when key turned (not seeing 3-4 ft squirt, but while cranking do get about a one foot arch leaving fuel line)...tried holding (even pumping) gas pedal during cranking but still won't start.

Please help with next idea. Any way to check the relay or do you just have to replace it? Read somewhere on how to check the injectors for fire but can't find it again.

Thanks for any help.
marcw1959 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 03:36 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
OK all, I see many have looked at this and no ideas. The mama lady is getting a little cranky so I'm going to ask the stupid question.
How can I best check to insure I have spark. As I am sure you know I have no individual coil, but coil packs...I am new to BMWs and the Haynes book sucks...going for a Chilton but could still use all the help you Beem-lovers can muster.
marcw1959 is offline  
#3 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 08:48 PM
1st Gear Member
 
vincentmb615's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: cape
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
vincentmb615 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to vincentmb615
on engine cover pull 2 10mm bolts on top take of oil cap remove the 2 10mm screws on coil pack 2 from the left pull it straight up and find a deep 5/8 socket with a extension and take out the plug push it back into the coil pack and sit the plug on something metal on the car have someone crank car while you check and you should see a spark jump if you dont thats your culprit check bank 3 and 4 as well if three arent working then you have no spark mine wont start either have gas no spark thinking crankshaft positioning sensor not 100% sure good luck any more ? just ask
vincentmb615 is offline  
#4 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 09:38 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by vincentmb615 View Post
on engine cover pull 2 10mm bolts on top take of oil cap remove the 2 10mm screws on coil pack 2 from the left pull it straight up and find a deep 5/8 socket with a extension and take out the plug push it back into the coil pack and sit the plug on something metal on the car have someone crank car while you check and you should see a spark jump if you dont thats your culprit check bank 3 and 4 as well if three arent working then you have no spark mine wont start either have gas no spark thinking crankshaft positioning sensor not 100% sure good luck any more ? just ask
Thanks Vincent...it's a little late tonight but I'll try first thing...didn't realize the plug would go into the coil like that...good luck with the sensor...I think I read someone say check the cam sensor first something about the crank sensor wouldn't keep it from firing...not positive though. Thanks again and good luck to you too.
marcw1959 is offline  
#5 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 09:42 PM
1st Gear Member
 
vincentmb615's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: cape
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
vincentmb615 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to vincentmb615
cam shaft wouldnt do that it would run rough mine wont run at all lol im going to try to pull codes tommorow and you code 1444 means no faults heres a list and thanks good luck



All BMWs from 1984 use a sophisticated Bosch engine management system called Motronic. The Motronic system (also called the Digital Motor Electronics or DME) is hands down the best overall fuel injection system that you can use when you consider price and performance. Ignition timing and fuel delivery are all controlled by a digital map that is recorded in a removable chip within the main fuel injection (DME) computer. The computer takes input from a variety of sensors that are located on the engine cylinder head temperature, altitude (ambient air pressure), crank angle, throttle position, exhaust gas oxygen (mixture), ambient air temperature, and mass air flow. The DME chip is programmed from the factory with certain performance characteristics (mostly conservative) so that the engine will react well under a host of varying conditions.
As with any electronic device, components can fail, triggering problems with the system. The BMW Motronic system is designed to react to these failures and indicate them to the driver, so that they can be fixed. If one of the computer's sensors is not working properly, then the computer may not be able to successfully identify the current state of the engine and choose the appropriate fuel mixture or timing advance level. When this happens, the fuel mileage drops, engine performance suffers, emissions increase, and the car typically illuminates the 'check engine' light.
In order to accurately find the sensor and fix the problem, you will need to find out which error code is being triggered by the computer. Pre-1995 BMWs were equipped with what is known as OBD I (On Board Diagnostics Level I). Stating in 1996, they were equipped with a more advanced version called OBD II, which was mandated by the US government, in order to standardize automotive repair and diagnostics. The OBD system is responsible for monitoring and checking all of the fuel injection sensors and systems in the vehicle, and turns on the 'check engine' lamp if it finds a problem or irregularity with one of them. The computer lodges a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the main computer until it is read and reset. Disconnecting the battery does not reset the codes - they need to be manually reset.
For BMWs equipped with OBD I, you can read the codes using a system that is built into the car. For OBD II compliant cars (1996 and later), the codes can only be read using a scan tool (more on this later).
To read codes for an OBD I car, you start by turning the ignition key on (do not start the engine) and pressing the gas pedal to the floor five times within a period of five seconds. If you proceeded correctly, then the check engine lamp will light on for five seconds, then blink off, then blink on for 2.5 seconds, and then go off for another 2.5 seconds. After this, the computer will start to show you the trouble fault codes that are stored.
The codes are given by short flashes of the check engine light, followed by short pauses. The codes are all four digit numbers. For example, the trouble fault code for monitoring the battery voltage level is 1231. This would show up flashing as "flash - pause - flash - flash - pause - flash - flash - flash - pause - flash." I suggest having a pen and paper handy when you do this, as the codes have a tendency to flash faster than you would think.
If there is more than one fault code stored, then each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause. When there are no more codes to be read, the computer will give the code 1000, which is one short flash, and then the light will remain off. Then the check engine light will flash a half-second and then turn off. To read the codes again, simply turn the ignition key off and on again and repeat the procedure with the gas pedal (five times within five seconds).
Here is a table that represents all of the possibly fault codes that can be read using this method:
Code Error Notes / Corrective Action
1000 End of output - no more fault codes This code shows the end of the stream of error codes, and tell you that the computer is finished showing them to you.
1444 No more faults This code shows that all faults have been fixed. Required to erase the computer's memory.
1211 DME Motronic Computer Fault This may indicate a problem with the DME computer. Most problems result in a dead computer that cannot give out codes, so this particular code is not seen too commonly. If the code does appear, start and rerun the test for about one minute. If the code reappears, then chances are that you need to replace your DME computer.
1215 Mass Air Flow Sensor Fault The mass air flow sensor measures the amount of air that is currently being drawn into the engine. A big hole in one of your fuel injection intake boots may cause the car to stall and generate this code.
1216 Throttle Position Switch Fault The later model Motronic systems used a potentiometer to measure throttle position and adjust fuel levels appropriately. If the 'pot' is not giving off the proper values, it will produce this code.
1218 DME Computer Output, Group #1 These two codes can be generated when there is a ground fault short circuit from B+ at one of the two DME Output Amplifier Stages. This code is not typically seen by itself, and is usually generated with a host of other codes. Possible problems may be O2 sensor heater relay, fuel evap system problem, EKP relay, ignition coil problem, a faulty idle speed actuator, etc. If you get this code, disconnect the DME and let it sit for 15 minutes, then recheck the codes. If it persists, and no other problems are found, then it is probably an internal DME problem. If the code goes away, then ignore it and call it an intermittent error.
1219 DME Computer Output, Group #2
1221 Oxygen Sensor (primary) The O2 sensor measures the mixture of the car. This code is generated if the sensor is unplugged or broken. Sensor values are read when the engine warmer than 70C, and should be within 0.02 and 0.85 volts. Negative values indicate that the sensor needs to be replaced, and slow fluctuation indicate that the sensor is clogged with soot. Cars with catalytic converters that have been removed may push this code.
1212 Oxygen Sensor (secondary)
1222 Oxygen Sensor Lean/Rich Detect (primary) If the signal from the O2 sensor indicates a very lean or very rich mixture for more than 10 seconds, then the computer generates this code. It could mean a faulty O2 sensor, or a problem with another component.
1213 Oxygen Sensor Lean/Rich Detect (secondary)
1223 Coolant Temperature Sensor Measures the temperature of the coolant inside the engine block. Used to determine if the engine is warm or cold. Check the wiring and the expected resistance value of the sensor.
1224 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Measures the temperature of air entering into the engine's fuel injection system, and adjusts the mixture accordingly. Colder air is more dense than warmer air and needs to be compensated for.
1225 Knock Sensor #1 The knock sensor is used to detect pre-ignition that can damage the engine. If the knock sensor is triggered, it will back off the timing of the car, reducing the 'pinging.' A fault is generated if there is an open circuit, a ground fault, or if the sensor sends multiple signals that don't correspond to proper engine operation.
1226 Knock Sensor #2
1227 Knock Sensor #3
1228 Knock Sensor #4
1231 Battery Voltage / DME Relay Monitor Monitors the condition of the battery and charging system, and produces a fault if a component goes out of specification or fail.
1232 Throttle Idle Position Switch On older Motronic systems, this switch was used along with the wide open position switch as a primitive throttle position switch.
1233 Throttle Wide Open Switch See above.
1234 Speedometer "A" Signal This code is generated when the engine is under load, over 2500 RPM and no discernable speedometer signal can be detected for more than 10 seconds. Check the wiring harness, and also the instrument console.
1237 A/C Compressor cutoff The compressor is automatically turned off when accelerating from low speed under full throttle. This code indicates a fault in the cut-out circuit or its wiring.
1241 Mass Airflow Sensor Codes 1241 and 2241 can be incorrectly generated on 1992 and later models. The actual fault is a improperly operating idle air valve, and the need for an updated EPROM. See BMW bulletins for more details.
1242 A/C Compressor Signal This code is generated if there is a ground fault (short circuit) or if the system detects that the compressor unit is disconnected.
1243 Crankshaft Position Sensor This code is triggered when the crank angle sensor is disconnected, or generates a signal that is not accurate when compared to the other engine sensors.
1244 Camshaft Position Sensor Displayed when the signal from the camshaft pulse generator is out of spec or absent. May indicate a problem with the injector side of the DME output stage.
1245 AEGS Intervention - Electronic Transmission Many BMWs are equipped with electronic transmissions. If the transmission encounters a major problem, it will generate an emergency message, and your on-board computer should show "TRANSMISSION EMERGENCY PROGRAM." Ignition timing will retard when this program is run.
1247 Ignition Secondary Monitor
1251 Fuel Injector #1 (single or group) Check the injector or injector group for proper wire harness connectivity. Also check the injectors for a clear, wide stream pattern. Code 1283 (Fuel Injector Output Stage) may also be triggered in conjunction with this code.
1252 Fuel Injector #2 (single or group)
1253 Fuel Injector #3
1254 Fuel Injector #4
1255 Fuel Injector #5
1256 Fuel Injector #6
1257 Fuel Injector #7
1258 Fuel Injector #8
1261 Fuel Pump Relay Control This code is generated when there is a break or ground fault in the circuitry associated with the DME fuel pump relay. Check pin #3 of the DME or the output stage in the DME (DME version M1.3 only).
1262 Idle Speed Control This shows up if the idle speed actuator shows a ground fault, or if the car stalls from an idle above 600 RPM.
1263 Fuel Tank Evaporative System (EVAP) The fuel tank evaporative system has a purge control valve that generates this code if there is a short circuit or open connection (DME version M1.3 only).
1264 Oxygen Sensor Heating Element This code is triggered if there is an open circuit or a short within the oxygen heating element circuit. Check the O2 heating element relay and also the air pump relay.
1265 Check Engine Lamp If the lamp in the dashboard burns out or shorts to ground, then this code is generated.
1266 VANOS System Check the wiring or the relay associated with the VANOS system (variable camshaft adjustment).
1267 Air Pump Relay Control Check the air pump relay and wiring (were applicable).
1271 Ignition Coil #1 An open-circuit or ground fault in the ignition wiring has occurred with an ignition coil. Place a timing light on the ignition wires and check for a signal. Also check the wires for faults, and check the spark plugs too.
1271 Ignition Coil #2
1271 Ignition Coil #3
1271 Ignition Coil #4
1271 Ignition Coil #5
1271 Ignition Coil #6
1271 Ignition Coil #7
1271 Ignition Coil #8
1281 DME Memory Unit Supply This indicates a fault with the internal memory of the DME computer. This is sometimes caused by low battery voltage. Delete the codes, and disconnect the DME for 15 minutes. Then reconnect, let the car idle for five minutes, and then drive over 30 mph for more than five minutes. Recheck the codes - if it occurs again, the DME is faulty and should be replaced.
1282 Fault Code Memory This code occurs when the DME generates a set of conflicting codes. Disconnect the DME for 15 minutes, reconnect, and then simulate a fault code, like unplugging the air flow sensor or idle actuator. If the code reoccurs, then you will need to replace the DME.
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage This code is generated when there is a short circuit or open connection between the wiring from the DME to an injector or injector stage.
1284 Knock Control Test Pulse The ECU periodically checks the knock sensor circuitry by sending a test pulse through the system. This code indicates that a test was performed, but no pulse was registered. Check the wiring and knock sensors.

When you are finished reading the codes, you can reset the computer and clear them all out. Make sure that the last code (1000) has occurred, and then press down on the gas pedal for more than 10 seconds. This should clear out the memory of the DME. Repeat the fault code reading process, and the computer should generate code 1444, which means that there are no faults stored.
On twelve-cylinder cars, the engines are controlled by two completely separate DME systems that act independently of each other (twice as many things to go wrong!). There are two DME computers (ECUs) located within each 12-cylinder car. To access the 2nd ECU, you press down the accelerator six times instead of five. The codes returned will be identical to the codes listed above, except for the first digit, which will be the number two instead of the number one.
Wire harnesses are a major cause of fault code problems. As the cars get older, the wiring harness have a habit of becoming what is commonly known as 'work hardened.' This causes the wiring to become brittle and often break inside of its plastic sheath. Only by testing the continuity of the wires end-for-end will you be able to determine whether the wire is broken or not.
For cars manufactured starting in 1996, BMW used the industry standard OBD II method of monitoring the fuel injection system. OBD II cars cannot be checked using the 'gas pedal' method previously described, but instead must be checked using a code scanner. The tool that I like to use is the Peak Research R5/FCX Fault Code Tool, shown in Figure 1. This tool is compatible with all BMWs built from 1987 to 2000 (except for 1999-2000 V8s). It displays all of the engine fault codes, and also has the option of resetting the oil service lamp. Since this tool works with both OBD I and OBD II cars, I prefer to use it on the pre-1996 cars, as it is much easier to read the codes using this tool than it is using the gas pedal method.
The R5 tool is used in a similar manner to the 'gas pedal method.' Turn on the ignition key (do not start the engine), and the install the tool into the BMW diagnostic connector located under the hood (Figure 2). This connector contains a large 20-pin connector which the tool uses to interface with the DME computer. Once the ignition is turned on, simply plug the tool into the socket - it can only go into the socket one way.
With the tool plugged in, it will 'spin' the LED lights for a few moments, and then prompt you with a menu. Hit the 'Select' button on the tool until you read the letters 'Fc' which stands for Fault Codes. Click 'Go' on the tool, and it will read the codes one by one from the computer. One note here though - the codes that show up on the tool are unique to this tool. You need to have a copy of the tool's operating manual in order to decode the proper codes for your car - make sure that you don't lose a copy of this manual, because it's not available on the web. For a list of troubleshooting tips and info on the tool, please see Peake Research's website.
When you are done reading the codes, you can reset them all using the R5 tool. Press the 'Select' button until you see 'cE' on the display, then press 'Go'. You can also use the tool to reset the oil service lamp, and the inspection lamps that light up on some of the earlier BMWs.
Well, there you have it! You can now arm yourself with the information that you need to start troubleshooting fuel injection system problems. In the very near future, we'll be having more technical articles on diagnosing and replacing fuel system components on the Motronic systems - keep watching the site for details!
See also Jared Fenton's write-up on reading fuel injection codes.
This technical article is made possible solely through the support of Pelican Parts. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.
vincentmb615 is offline  
#6 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 10:03 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
witeshark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 14,697
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by vincentmb615
Also check the wires for faults, and check the spark plugs too.
1271 Ignition Coil #2
1271 Ignition Coil #3
1271 Ignition Coil #4
1271 Ignition Coil #5
1271 Ignition Coil #6
1271 Ignition Coil #7
1271 Ignition Coil #8
While we surely appreciate your input, shouldn't each of those codes end in a number with each respective coil?

BMW

Sig by zeaq
witeshark is offline  
#7 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 10:22 PM
1st Gear Member
 
vincentmb615's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: cape
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
vincentmb615 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to vincentmb615
Originally Posted by vincentmb615
Also check the wires for faults, and check the spark plugs too.
1271 Ignition Coil #2
1271 Ignition Coil #3
1271 Ignition Coil #4
1271 Ignition Coil #5
1271 Ignition Coil #6
1271 Ignition Coil #7
1271 Ignition Coil #8


it does if i pasted it wrong its on pelicanparts.com
vincentmb615 is offline  
#8 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 05:52 AM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
Guess I had it backwards then cam sensor bad runs s&^%$y and crank sensor bad no runny...ok
sorry another ? how to check the injectors? I've only verified fuel to the rail so far...and wifey just told me that while i was out of town she took the beam to wally world for an oil change and they "cleaned" the injectors for her...they were really nice :-o doh
Now I was back for about 10-12 day before the beam laid over but it has crept up the concern needle a bit....going out in a few to check spark....will report back -- and thanks again.
marcw1959 is offline  
#9 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 07:24 AM
1st Gear Member
 
vincentmb615's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: cape
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
vincentmb615 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to vincentmb615
spray starting fluid down the throttle body if its just a fuel issue it should start for a second
vincentmb615 is offline  
#10 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 09:04 AM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
Hey Vincent, how are you doing? Man I am at a loss...pulled coil and plug on #s 2 3 4 and 5...all had good spark (fired off first one electrode and then the other) -- checked air cleaner and it looked damn near new -- sprayed starter fluid into throttle body, reseated intake body (tube from the air cleaner assembly) and cranked away.....she kind-of tried to start after about ten full seconds but never fully caught.
So, fuel pump replaced...spark on all four cylinders checked...clean air filter...starter fluid down her throat and still no joy...I'm sorry, but I am at a real loss

can you guys come up with any more ideas before I send her off to the stealer-ship??
marcw1959 is offline  
#11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 09:49 AM
1st Gear Member
 
vincentmb615's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: cape
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
vincentmb615 is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to vincentmb615
your getting spark no fuel it should of started with the fluid check your fuel rail make sure theres no cracks or anythinhg you got a new pump can you hear it pumping? i believe theres a button on the rail that pushes gas into the injectors you will have to search for it its not your dme because your still geting spark also check your fuse for the fuel pump its #18
vincentmb615 is offline  
#12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 10:36 AM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
marcw1959 is on a distinguished road
(Thread Starter)
How is your car doing?

I'm up and running -- for now anyway. I got pissed and went out and cranked and pumped the gas for almost a minute and then she rolled over...had to feather the gas for a few minutes then let her settle to idle and came inside for half and hour letting her run. Went back out and shut her down and restarted a couple of times...rollin over like a good girl! Guess I just had to get that rail re primed...any other ideas?

Anyway, hope your baby decides to treat you right...let me know, i'll keep watching.

Thanks again ALL for all the help.
marcw1959 is offline  
#13 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 06:31 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
318ise36318is is on a distinguished road
YES CRANK SENSOR DOES PALY A MASSIVE PART IN THIS!!!!!!!! if the sensor has gone then as the flt wheel is turning it aint pick out the point on the wheel its aimed at! so car wont start! NEW CRANK SENSOR 22 POUNDS EURO CAR PARTS JOB DONE! BUT MITE BE GOOD TO DO CAM SENSOR ASWELL! ASLOO 20 POUNDS FROM SAME PLACE! U CAN FIT THEM YOUR SELF!
318ise36318is is offline  
#14 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009, 09:55 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
s-mail is on a distinguished road
Starting my BMW in cold weather

I had a similar issue with my 2004 330I model almost every winter when I park my car in the garage for few days. I just returned from a one week ski trip and my car would not start. I know the battery is good because I just replaced it a year ago and the light work well and I hear a crank when starting the engine. What I've done every time this happened was holding the gas pedal down while cranking the engine for about 30 seconds continuously and the engine would eventually start. I learn this the hard way in my first year while the car was still under warranty. I called the dealer and they had towed my car to the dealership and performed the same operation. When I picked it up I asked the mechanic and he have me the tip. Obviously this does not fix any other engine, starter or spark issues, but if the car was fine last time you drove it and you parked if for few days and it was cold, then most likely your care is fine. If you hear a crank, it means your battery is good, so crank it up 'till it starts. Good luck!
s-mail is offline  
#15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 10:39 PM
n00b
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
fro3and5series is on a distinguished road
I'm having the same problem with my 98 328i right now. it will crank but not start unless I really stomp on the pedal and then maintain pressure. Once I take my foot off of the pedal, the engine won't idle. It just cuts out. If I keep my foot on the gas, the engine will run normally as though I were driving around town. Once I take my foot off the gas, the engine quits, any ideas? I got spark because the engine does start. The battery and alternator are good. Fuel flows because the engine starts, so pumps and lines should be good. Why would it cut out on idle? Anyone seen anything like this? Will cranking the engine for 30 seconds really get it to start?
fro3and5series is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E36)


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cranks but no start Queball 1,6,7,8 - Series and Mini Cooper 10 10-30-2008 07:15 AM
94 e36 trouble code 1444 keple9801 3-Series (E36) 5 10-05-2008 06:07 PM
My car cranks, but won't start?! MarqE36 3-Series (E36) 19 05-01-2006 10:27 PM
Motor Cranks But Wont Start AllEyezOnMe 3-Series (E36) 4 11-22-2004 12:16 PM
Car cranks but doesn't start silver325rider 3-Series (E36) 9 07-13-2004 11:47 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome