3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.
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Here's the deal. I've replaced both the O2 sensor and the heater relay as advised only to find out that Code 1222 is actually an air leak per the Bentley manual. However, since I replaced the heater relay (I did the O2 sensor in December and the relay just now) the car will run fine when it's 'warmed up' but shitty when I first start it (aka cold).
Here's my questions:
1) How can it be an air leak when the problem disappears when the car is warm? And if it isn't, what could it be?
2) Is there some way that I can clear the CEL at home? Is this just a 'disconnect the battery' fix? And if I 'clear the codes', will this problem finally stop?
Thanks in advance guys.
PS- for drz and the rest of you guys, I'm offically moving from UB to werkz.
WHAT??? BMW code 1222 points to an oxygen sensor problem(OBD 1).
1) air leak disappears... : we learn in Grade 4 science class - molecules expand when heated; and contract when cold, right? ... using that, it's very possible u have a leak that closes up(i.e. rubber to metal joint) when the materials get warm.
2) clearing CEL : what yr & model do you have. i will see if your model's On Board Diagnostics has the capability to do that. Otherwise, yes, you could disconnect your battery too a few hrs or overnight, and that should clear ur ECU/ECM memory. Your problem will not stop though, gotta correct the prob frst before the CEL goes away.
Last edited by darkhorse737; 06-13-2008 at 09:30 AM.
Here's the deal. I've replaced both the O2 sensor and the heater relay as advised only to find out that Code 1222 is actually an air leak per the Bentley manual. However, since I replaced the heater relay (I did the O2 sensor in December and the relay just now) the car will run fine when it's 'warmed up' but shitty when I first start it (aka cold).
Here's my questions:
1) How can it be an air leak when the problem disappears when the car is warm? And if it isn't, what could it be?
2) Is there some way that I can clear the CEL at home? Is this just a 'disconnect the battery' fix? And if I 'clear the codes', will this problem finally stop?
Thanks in advance guys.
PS- for drz and the rest of you guys, I'm offically moving from UB to werkz.
Hi! Amanda, and Welcome to the Werkz............
As far as the first question, when certain materials get hot they expand, & when they get cold they contract...... My 97 328i has some sought of a slight exhaust leak in the right front engine area when the engine is cold upon first starting it, but as soon as it gets warm , the leak sound goes away!
So maybe when your engine warms up, the area that is leaking air expands & the leak stops?????
I'm going to try find the fix for your problem....... I'll get back to you.....soon
take care,
johnny
other way to clear CEL in OBD1(pre-1996) BMW's:
- disconnect the subject control unit with ignition off and CEL should clear. In your case, you can disconnect the oxygen sensor &/or pull out the 02 sensor relay, and you're done!
I found these links, I found out that code 1222 has something to do with Lambda Control 1...... the first link was pretty interesting click on & scroll down to code 1222 & read explanation........
Hope this helps, Do you hear a leak of any kind??????
johnny,
1) If you look under my name to the left, you can see that I have a 1993 318is. OBDI, 4 cyl, auto tranny, etc, etc.
2) I also thought it was 'Lambda Control 1', if you read the link I posted. However, after investigating it within the Bentley manual, I found that 1221 is for the O2 sensor, 1222 is a MASSIVE air leak, and 1648 is the O2 heater relay. Apparently, every online source quotes 1222 as lambda control 1. Bentley trumps online sources.
3) I understand thermal expansion. I'm an engineer, I've taken thermodynamics. I get it. The real problem I have with this is that if code 1222 is a MASSIVE air leak, it should be so massive that thermal expansion would not take care of it entirely. Keep in mind that the idle goes from 300 to 2000 rpm and sometimes kills itself until the engine is 'warm'. If it is an air leak, it would have to be fairly large to cause that type of idle. Correct?
This code is stored when the DME detects excessive
deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer
than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty,
Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked,
Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak,
Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter
defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by
mechanical failure (Spark plugs, compression,
intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.)
I've been reading up on this. What are the chances of the engine temperature sensor going bad and which part number is it? I'm looking at pelican, but there's too many sensors.
We ran into this on a car before. Not a BMW, but anyway, if all other possibilities are exhausted...
92 Caddillac. It would dog out and kill itself cold as well, we did all the relays, computers, and new pumps several times, before we discover that the vents on the tank were inoperable. We replaced the tank, and the car is still running fine today.
An option for you is have you checked your fuel lines running up the the block? A pinhole could cause a fault code like the one listed above. IF the pump isn't pushing 100% fuel up to the injectors, your mixture is already going to be off.
My two cents.
__________________
R.I.P fast 6
Two wheels or Four, I'm happy as long as the throttle is pinned.
I've been reading up on this. What are the chances of the engine temperature sensor going bad and which part number is it? I'm looking at pelican, but there's too many sensors.
Amanda have you given any consideration to it being the vacuum Lines? You could have a leak in there that could cause the poorer performance. If you are intersted in pursuing that I will do some hunting, I have seen a few places where the entire m42 vacuum line system is illustrated and I think has the parts for the hoses and where they all go.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yammahamma
If I wanted to date you, I would have bought you dinner first.
Amanda have you given any consideration to it being the vacuum Lines? You could have a leak in there that could cause the poorer performance. If you are intersted in pursuing that I will do some hunting, I have seen a few places where the entire m42 vacuum line system is illustrated and I think has the parts for the hoses and where they all go.
+1 ^ on the vacuum theory, Hey! Nick! she had her intake off about a year ago, I remember in one of her threads, she had tightened down on a hose or something & she said she had corrected it... I also found this.............. Hope this helps you Amanda....
johnny,
Dave, I don't think it's the fuel tank. I park in the garage every night. I should be able to smell gas leaking out, correct?
Johnny and Nick, I was planning on buying a can of ether to spray on a cold engine. From what I read, brake cleaner is also highly flammable? Because I have a LOT of brake cleaner sitting around from when I painted/redid my rotors and calipers.
I haven't gotten around to doing this because the only time it does it is in the morning when I need to get to work right then. When I have time, the car is fine.
well, if the tank is not venting properly, like in the cadillac, it would basically try to suck in on itself. also, if the pinhole is just enough to cause problems, it may not be enough to actually notice.
__________________
R.I.P fast 6
Two wheels or Four, I'm happy as long as the throttle is pinned.
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Code 1222: Still screwing with me a year later 
E sechsunddreißig
M42 power
Linear Mode
