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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 03-27-2009, 06:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch hits floor, No resistance!

Hello everyone I own a 1993 325IS 2door coupe 5speed... I was driving to work yesterday morning and everything was fine, park my car 1st, ebrake of course... Go outside at the end of the day to start my car and I press on my clutch and it just hits the floor... I was like wtf!!! so i pulled it back up with my hand and it did it again.... freaked out tried to crank my car and it didn't do anything.....

No pressure in the clutch, it seems like once the clutch gets past the lever action of the clutch it feels like a magnet is pulling it to the floor... I have done alot of research online, and I am pretty sure it is the Clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder... Also something that might help I think I heard about brake and clutch going to the same place on these M50 engine E36 chassis cars....

I added day before yesterday Valvoline Dot 3 & 4 Brake liquid... Car says only use Dot 4... That could be a problem.. I guess I am going to have my car dollied down the mountain to a shop and go buy a slave cylinder andf a clutch master cylinder and try it out....

I am just freaking out, I love this car.... Coolest car I have ever had, I am 22 and own my own beemer..... I just wish I had some guide lines.

So yes PMSSKG here, new member and I think I am really working my self up over nothing.... But I dunno, plz help you guys..... I have to go to work, I will check my thread when I get home....

Thank you for your time and consideration.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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also I can not seem to find a clutch fluid reservoir to check the clutch fluid....
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The clutch master shares the same resevoir as the brakes. and yes it is most likely the slave. It's pretty easy to change, just clamp the hose to prevent the fluid from leaking any more than neccesary. Once the line is reattached, unclamp and open the bleeder and allow fluid to run out. Make sure the brake res. is full, then with the bleeder still open push the shaft in and close the bleeder, this will get most of the air out. When you reinstall it into the bell housing you should feel the resistance of the shaft being pushed in, this will tell you that it's contacting the clutch fork. This is critical, other wise when you push the clutch pedal down the shaft can pop out and fall into the bell housing, not good! After that just bleed it till the pedal is good and firm. Pelican Technical Article: BMW Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
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Old 03-28-2009, 06:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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jmo69 thank you for your reply, seems pretty easy.. lets just hope its the slave cylinder.... I did notice now that I retrace my steps that as I was pulling into work the clutch did feel a little funny, still tight in pressure but the pressure decided to start a little late than normal... but thanks jmo69!
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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mann the same exact thing happened to my car turns out it was a faulty slave cylinder however they did have to replace both master and slave cylinder. so for a day i was forced to put in brake fluid and pump the clutch a billion times till it got the resistance back (ghetto i know) hey but it still held till i would turn off my car for the night and go to sleep until i would have to do it again in the morning to take it to a shop lol
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