Can anyone help me? - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 02:58 PM
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Unhappy Can anyone help me?

Hi, i have a few bmw's but one of them happens to be a 1992 325i and i have a few things weird happening that someone may be able to assist me with. first, when i start my car i hear clicking and sometimes hear it when i accelerate. i just changed my oil 1,000 miles ago and dont understand. the other problem is when i am going over 50 miles per hour, my car shakes. it comes from my right front wheel and when i turn left it does it a lot more than when i turn right on the freeway. does anyone know what these issues are and anyway to fix them?
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 02:59 PM
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this car does have about 150,000 miles on it, if that helps
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#3 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 03:23 PM
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sounds like a cntrol arm or thrust arm issue on that side.... the front suspention usually need matinece at 100k-120k..... looks like you might be having a busing isse(also cheak the balance on the wheel)

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#4 (permalink) Old 05-08-2008, 01:06 AM
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You have to check first if you have enough oil pressure (at a workshop), and if you do it means the oil pump is ok and lubricating system is working properly. There might be two reasons for that click:
1. The injectors are ungauged, and the only solution is to replace all of them (might be a little expensive unfortunately); In this case, that clicking sound is stronger and you hear it from inside the engine.
2. Some of the valve gaps does not have the standard values, and they make a sound when the engine is cold or wehn you force it. In this case, the click is very thin and you hear it from the upper side of the engine. To solve it, you have to get in a workshop and ask them to calibrate the gaps. You don't have to change parts.

About the steering, first go to a rim or tire workshop and calibrate the both front wheels, and after that you have to chek and adjust the wheel alignement: the camber, caster and toe angles for the front wheels and the camber and toe angles for the rear wheels. That should really solve your problem.


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#5 (permalink) Old 05-25-2008, 12:30 PM
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Another thing you may want to check that should be pretty easy is your universal joints on your drive shaft... they click when they start to wear out...

To check them, put on your parking brake or block your tires, put your car in neutral, and try to shake your drive shaft up and down and try to rotate it, if you hear clicking near the u-joints, replace them... If you wanted to this is also a good way to check for play in your rear diff and slip joints at the same time.
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#6 (permalink) Old 05-25-2008, 10:45 PM
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if the clicking is from underneath the car, check the driveshaft like mentioned, if it's coming from the engine, try a heavier weight oil, mobil 1 0w40 is gold for e36's, the shaking could be an out of balance wheel, could be worn out ball joints, which would mean changing the control arms, or it could be your wheel bearings, i'd take it to a tire shop and have them check to see the wheels are balanced, good luck

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#7 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 10:57 AM
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thats a good point... belt separation on a tire could cause a vibration at any of the wheels or all of them at speeds anywhere from as low as 20-45 mph or as high as 70-85 mph. But also if its minor separation you may not be able to pick it up on a tire balancer that simply free spins the tire, you may need one of them balancers that actually put load on the surface of the tire while spinning it...

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#8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 03:39 AM
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I repaired my e36 climate control when it had no digital display and no buttons worked. I replaced the bad .47 picofarad 50v capacitor. It took less than 1 hour which includes removal, repair and replacement.
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#9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryG View Post
I repaired my e36 climate control when it had no digital display and no buttons worked. I replaced the bad .47 picofarad 50v capacitor. It took less than 1 hour which includes removal, repair and replacement.
congratulations, you're an idiot, everyone has done that, and it is completely irrelevant

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#10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 08:46 AM
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Be Nice

It may be irrelevant to you & your topic but the computer will sort it out for a searcher. You didn't need to call me a name, that wasn't very nice, now you're going to have terrible luck! To make a statement that includes the word (Everybody) reveals your level of intelligence. My IQ = 135

Notice, I didn't call you any names, learn something.
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