+PB Blaster (penitrating lube) if you happen to run across it. WD-40 is NOT a penitrating lubricant, it is a degreaser that happens to be all slippery.
+Brake cleaner (spray on the rotors [both sides] after you put them on the car and wipe off the cleaner with a clean paper towel. Gets any oils or greases that you can't see off of the rotor so your brakes actually do something the first time you use them)
+Anti Squeal paste\spray (for the back of the brake pads, be liberal with this shit [only needed where the pad contacts the caliper])
+Anti-seize spray (spray it where the rotor contacts the hub, NOT on bolts and such, just where the rotor is placed on the hub so it dosn't corrode to it in a few years and make you take a sledge to it next time)
+Breaker bar is handy, or a thick pipe that fits over the wrench\socketwrench well - This is 1000x better than beating a wrench with a big hammer, plus you don't bang on the suspension parts
+The correct size wrenches or sockets and hex bit (for retaining bolt)
+a beefy flathead screwdriver and maybe some needle nose plyers to help get the caliper\pads off.
The rotor retaining bolt needs a hex bit, so don't get a socket to take it out, and you *don't* need to torque that one on ultra-hard, that bolt simply holds the rotor onto the hub when the wheel lug nuts arn't holding it.
Also, keep note on which way a bolt turns to come out, and which way it turns to go in. I know I know, you know that and everyone says DUH, but... I admit, I noticed I was doing it wrong after about 15 minutes with a socket wrench and a hammer one time too... I wasn't facing the bolt, I was behind it so I got all confused... this is also before I learned that a breakerbar is your friend. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...Brake_Pads.htm
That will tell you how to change the pads. The rotors are just another bolt and you also take the brake pad carier off.