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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 07:13 PM
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Found it on auto trader, all the standard options, 5cd changer. Pic was on autrotrader, but now gone.

recent tune up, new clutch, brakes, water pump, fog lights, some other stuff. all BMW certified mechanic.

$6000.00 firm price. Talked down from $6800

96 328i 5 spd black on tan leather. 150k highway miles.

Usual small rock chips on front of the car, small door dings.

No body damage, assumed clean title, original owner

Rear speakers short out every now and then, how would I fix this?

Clock fuse needs replacing (easy right..?)

no cracks/holes in the interior/dash.

Here is what needs to be done:
Oil change and air filter change ($80)
Replace front lower ball joints (Approx $600)


blue book value is $7300.

Car is completely stock, including the ugly version 15" alloy wheels.

Should I go for it? Anything else should I ask for?

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#2 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 09:05 PM
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please, any comments? is this a good deal, I need some feedback as the deadline for the deal is end of nov.

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#3 (permalink) Old 11-24-2004, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mmzcee@Nov 22 2004, 07:05 PM
please, any comments? is this a good deal, I need some feedback as the deadline for the deal is end of nov.
[snapback]235571[/snapback]
Hey

Ten months ago I bought my '97 328is w/sports package 78K for $13K. Nice car. I preferred the sports package; I like the wheels better and they are easy to clean.
If you are serious about the car, the price seems good but pay some qualified BMW tech to survey the car. $150 well spent.

Good luck!

"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and
deserve to get it good and hard."
-H.L. Mencken
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#4 (permalink) Old 11-26-2004, 03:03 AM
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That sounds like a great deal - even with the higher mileage. Good that you're already figuring in the repair costs if you get it. The front lower ball joints should be replaced all together along with the thrust bushings. You can get all the parts for about $200. If you're comfortable doing your own work - it's actually not that difficult a job.

Make sure you get receipts or at least find out what local shop did the work to verify. Always a good thing to bring it to a shop to get it checked out before you buy.
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-26-2004, 09:49 AM
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mmzcee is an unknown quantity at this point
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I just checked out bimmerparts.com for the ball joints, the only cost $24.55 each?

or is it the wrong part I'm looking at?



Also, can't seem to find thrust bushings on that site...is it referred to as anything else?

Ball Joint...
Control Arm...
Control Arm Bushing...
Control Arm Bushing Kit
Control Arm Stay...
Shock Absorber...
Shock Bellows
Shock Bump Stop
Shock Mount
Shock Mount Washer...
Strut Assembly...
Strut Bump Stop
Strut Dust Sleeve
Strut Mount
Subframe Bushing
Subframe Bushing Kit...
Subframe Damper
Suspension Kit...
Sway Bar Bracket
Sway Bar Bushing
Sway Bar Link...
Trailing Arm Bushing...

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#6 (permalink) Old 11-26-2004, 11:39 AM
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bitcore will become famous soon enough bitcore will become famous soon enough
take a look at this, common E36 problems:

Most notibly: the rubber bushings for LCA, RTAB's and sometimes the ball joints fail too soon to be called normal, rear shock mounts tend to go bad really soo n(can replace with E46 M3 Convertable ones for a beefier mount), Radiator thermostat gets stuck, Radiator hose connector cracks (dealer will replace under warentee for free if your still covered, happened to me)
Since it's a 96, it should be free from many of the earlier "bugs" that were in the earlier E36's

I say go for it, esp. if you have a friend with a lift and would be interested in working on the car (IE: replacing bushings and crap, changing oil) you can really save a lot of money doing things yourself than paying someone else to do it.
For example, I just fixed my A/C final stage unit be re-soldering this one capacitor's leads, cost me nothing, and saved $300.


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#7 (permalink) Old 11-26-2004, 02:10 PM
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6k for a decent condition 328.. fucking grab it now man.

take it to the dealer and have them inspect it for 100 buxx before you buy it

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#8 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mmzcee@Nov 26 2004, 07:49 AM
I just checked out bimmerparts.com for the ball joints, the only cost $24.55 each?

or is it the wrong part I'm looking at?



Also, can't seem to find thrust bushings on that site...is it referred to as anything else?

Ball Joint...
Control Arm...
Control Arm Bushing...
Control Arm Bushing Kit
Control Arm Stay...
Shock Absorber...
Shock Bellows
Shock Bump Stop
Shock Mount
Shock Mount Washer...
Strut Assembly...
Strut Bump Stop
Strut Dust Sleeve
Strut Mount
Subframe Bushing
Subframe Bushing Kit...
Subframe Damper
Suspension Kit...
Sway Bar Bracket
Sway Bar Bushing
Sway Bar Link...
Trailing Arm Bushing...
[snapback]237773[/snapback]
You actually just want to replace the entire control arm - the outer ball joint can be replaced but the inner one can't. The control arm assembly comes with the both ball joints pre-installed. You don't want to pay for outer ball joint replacement and then have to shell out another few hundred bucks for the inner ones when they go too.
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 07:02 PM
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id say go for it... not a bad car at all

David
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#10 (permalink) Old 11-29-2004, 12:36 AM
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mmzcee is an unknown quantity at this point
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hey, thanks for the feedback.

got one question, what are the consequences of not properly maintaining/replacing the suspension components? (the ones like ball joints, mounts, etc.)

asking because my current mercedes, 10 years since my dad bought it and I don't think he ever even touched the suspension, and it still rides fine, even though its a bit bumpy.

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