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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 05-18-2004, 07:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Help!!! ( stock 92 E36)

After I put on new pads, disks and sensors, I decided to replace the brake fluid. I sucked out almost all of the old fluid in the reservoir, then added fresh fluid. Starting with the right rear caliper, I had a helper push on the brake pedal while I opened the bleeder screw. I had a hose attached to the bleeder screw and to a catch bottle (hose to the bottom of the bottle). With the pedal all the way down, I closed the bleeder screw and asked the helper to release the pedal. This was repeated 10 times at this wheel. The above process was then done again at the left rear, right front and, finally at the left front. I may have let the reservoir level fall too low once, but I think I got all the air out. I also bled the clutch slave cylinder, which is fed by the brake reservoir. I repeated the whole bleeding process two more times and STILL the brake pedal feels mushy and goes almost 3/4 of the way to the floor. It stiffens up on the second full stroke.

Remedy??? (Thanks in advance)

Tom
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Old 05-18-2004, 08:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take it a bmw mechanic place or if your town dosen't have one. Take it to a repectable mecahnic shop. Your brakes need to be bled properly and brake booster has to be checked. Bmw Brake booster are kinda arse to work with since they run very high ghead .

PS: Don't go to a Bmw dealership they will you.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Take the car out, get going about 20, make sure nobody is behind you, and lock up the brakes to get the ABS to kick on. Do this a couple times to get the bad fluid out of the ABS pump. Then repeat your bleeding process.

Did you have your helper pump the brakes till the pedal was stiff? Go back through and bleed once the pedal becomes stiff, then when your helper presses the brake and it's right there right away stop. You've probably just got some air bubbles in the system.

Also, a good investment would be to get speed bleeders, and possibly the power bleeder that just pressurizes the whole system, no pumping required.

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Old 05-19-2004, 11:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Kevin,

Thanks for the idea. I had thought about doing that (getting the ABS to come on). I have ordered a pressure bleeder from Bavarian Autosport which should be here today or tomorrow. I'll let you know how it turns out.


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Old 05-19-2004, 04:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Between the clutch slave and the ABS that should be all your dirty fluid. Good luck with the change, I've got to do this too when I get time cause I was too lazy to get the fluid out of the ABS so i locked up the wheels after I changed the fluid and the pedal is mushy again. I'm VERY picky about the brakes being right there when even feather the pedal.

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Old 05-20-2004, 01:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I don't know about you all, but if my brakes were mushy and giving me problems, the last thing I'd do is go out and slam on the brakes. The last thing I'd need is the brakes to go out.
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Old 05-20-2004, 01:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by heifetz17@May 20 2004, 01:51 AM
I don't know about you all, but if my brakes were mushy and giving me problems, the last thing I'd do is go out and slam on the brakes. The last thing I'd need is the brakes to go out.
Brakes don't go out that way. I was able to diagnose the problem on my cutlass, using the above mentioned method
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Old 05-20-2004, 01:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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They won't necessarily go out that way, but they can. I've seen it happen, exactly that way, more than once. That's why I'll never do it. It's not worth the risk to me.
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi Guys,

I got the pressure bleeder from Bavarian Autosports and bled the brakes twice. The pedal is just as mushy as before. Please, don't send me to the dealer!! ghead

Also, now I have a rattling sound from the right rear that occurs only while the car is in motion. It is a dry rattle that sounds like a very loose bracket or a rock in the hubcap (even though I don't HAVE any hubcaps). A thorough inspection yielded no results. Could it be a failing CV joint?


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Old 05-24-2004, 09:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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told ya, it was the booster.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Snipe.

But, if the booster were bad, why would there be THREE times the pedal travel distance for less braking effect? The pedal almost goes to the floor. Without an effective booster I would expect three times the pedal EFFORT but the same travel (about an inch?). The brakes (including the booster) were working fine until I started replacing the brake fluid. What could I have done to mess up the booster?


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Old 05-24-2004, 03:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Any thread only I've read about flushing the system ussually say to have somebody pump the brakes. Here's what I'm going to do once I get the chance as I bled them yesterday and forgot to do this part. Invite a friend over to show him your car. Flush the lines through with the power bleeder. Then do it the old fasion way for 2 or 3 pumps at each caliper. The key will have to be in the "on" position for sure, but I don't know if running the car helps with any of it.

Kevin

P.S. If you figure it out, let me know.
P.P.S. screw the dealer
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