3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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I can tell this problem is in its infancy, but i generally like to nip such things in the bud. I have noticed that upon engaging the clutch at speed costing to a stop, my engine revs and cycles a few times before setling at its normal idle rpm. I am asuming it is the idle speed control sensor (throtle position sensor or whatenver the crap you want to call it)but has anyone out there had to fix such, or is there a decent faq concerning such a repair?
not completely positive with these cars, as I really haven't had to do any maintenance yet, but I've heard that cleaning out the egr or if i am mistaken, its something involved with the intake/throttle body area... but once again, I haven't had to do any maintenance past an oil change on this car so i couldn't be positive.
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My car also has a habit to do this but its not consistent enough to worry me.
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I had this problem too. It even got to the point where the RPM got "stuck" at about 3k for a couple minutes. My friend who is a BWM Master Technician told me it could be the idle valve. They tend to close/open inproperly when they get dirty inside. However the problem went away in my case.
Since the idle valve is REALLY hard to get to I don't bother taking it out and cleaning it, unless the problem comes back.
My experience with that is when i am driving fast/"agressive" (accelerating a few times to 6K rpm, braking late) and then i have to wait for trafic lights, the idle rpm is undulate around 1500 rpm a couple of times. After 10 seconds the idle rpm returns to normal.
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Originally Posted by Torque
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Originally posted by dutchbmw@Mar 29 2004, 05:15 AM My experience with that is when i am driving fast/"agressive" (accelerating a few times to 6K rpm, braking late) and then i have to wait for trafic lights, the idle rpm is undulate around 1500 rpm a couple of times. After 10 seconds the idle rpm returns to normal.
A possible reason for that might be that the metal of the idle valve expands a little when it's hot (it's really close to the engine block) and hence does not shut properly if it's already restricted a little but carbon residues and their like.
After a couple of seconds the metal cools down, the extra friction is gone and the idle valve can close/open freely.
I had the same problem on my 3000GT. Pulled off the throttle body, cleaned the IAC motor and housing, then re-installed the TB and re-adjusted the TPS as per the shop manual. Back to like new. It's a pretty easy job.
Originally posted by miatawnt2b@Mar 30 2004, 11:15 AM I had the same problem on my 3000GT. Pulled off the throttle body, cleaned the IAC motor and housing, then re-installed the TB and re-adjusted the TPS as per the shop manual. Back to like new. It's a pretty easy job.
J
Yeah, i figured i could try this, i was just hoping someone had this problem withan e36. Like i said, my buddy's mitsubishi (ironic, huh) had this issue. i now know how to do this on an eclipse, but i haven't bought a manual for an e36 yet, so i was hoping someone might know.
I have the same problem my rev meter gets stuck for about 5second in betwen 3300 and 4000 and i've experienced the same problems you guys mentioned the only difrence is that mine is consistent.
please let me know if you figure it out!
Originally posted by jllphan@Mar 27 2004, 08:38 PM I can tell this problem is in its infancy, but i generally like to nip such things in the bud. I have noticed that upon engaging the clutch at speed costing to a stop, my engine revs and cycles a few times before setling at its normal idle rpm. I am asuming it is the idle speed control sensor (throtle position sensor or whatenver the crap you want to call it)but has anyone out there had to fix such, or is there a decent faq concerning such a repair?
sounds like idle control valve.
a short-term band-aid solution could be to change your spark plugs. shortly after i went from ngk to bosch F7LDCR, the idle went to crap. went back to ngk BKR6EQUP and it is smooth again. one thing to note though--if the car is sensitive enough to where a change in spark plug brand would make a difference in idle, the car has deeper issues to deal with, such as the ICV, throttle body, O2 sensors, knock sensors, etc.
in my case, my ICV needs a thorough cleaning and i know for a fact that i need a new #2 knock sensor, but i am saving that project to do simultaneously because you have to pull the intake manifold to do it.
Thanks for the help guys! I figured it was probably the ICV or TPS. I guess i just need to locate these parts and check them out. I recently changed the plugs, went from oem to Bosch Platinum +4. The problem existed prior to changing the plugs.
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