3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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So I have been having a problem with my car pulling, oddly in both directions. I have had the car aligned THREE times now. Originally right before I left for FL, I had the dealer do it. They also told me to replace a rear control arm and both front control bushings on the front before I had it aligned. Previously I had also replaced the driver's side ball joint. (The ball joint replacement was what threw it off.)
1) the dealer did a horrible job
2) I replaced my passenger side ball joint as it was horrible and I had it aligned at the shop I work at, however we are not set up for BMW's and didn't use weights. Would have thought the dealer would have mentioned that ball joint... this was 6,000 miles after initial alignment
3) The alignment tech and myself used me sitting in the back seat in the middle leaned forward to align the car. (Figured I've got nothing to lose except another $140 at the dealer so I'll try it!)
The car actually drives MUCH MUCH better since this last alignment. However, if I let go of the steering wheel, in not too long of a time it will pull the right.... then maybe to the left.... then maybe to the right.... it will eventually pick a side and head for the ditch tho.
Bad tie rods?? Everything under there seems tight. I don't think the weights could have this significant of a difference...? Rear struts sound like they need replacing... idk if these would have an effect on it... Thanks
If it goes left and right it can be a couple of things. You might have too much toe out. From my experence BMW's with rubber/stock bushings drive better when the toe is set to the inside of the spec. You might still have some worn bushings and/or ball joints with play in them. Another thing that a lot of people forget about is if the roads and freeways are concrete they usually put small channels in the concrete to help with water run-off. These small channels are never perfectly straight and will cause the car to pull one way or another. This pulling gets more noticeable with wider tires and where your toe setting is, running very litte or no toe in makes the pulling very noticable.
Hmmm... that is a good point. Well if I remember correctly we set the toe IN .03 of a degree? I'm fairly certain that was it. I do know that the ball joints in the center of both of my control arms are on their way out. Perhaps that is what's causing the problem. Thanks for the input
^ if there are alot of miles on the car you should check your wheel bearing too... Just Is Case
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
The car pulls when I am driving along with cruise on. Wheel bearings might be a good idea. I'm sure they're not horrible or I would have noticed it, but I have not done the spin the wheel while holding the spring method to check them. Good idea. Next summer when it is back on the road I shall do that. Thank you.
??? Never heard of that.... check your tierods to mine is really bad to.....
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
Alpine, oh yea, you just hold the spring and spin the wheel. If you feel vibration, you have a bad wheel bearing. If you don't, your wheel bearing is fine.
...... that is after the earing is bad.... but when it is going bad you'lll notice a little more play in the steering and pulling in different directions.... just re pack you wheel bearing and re adjust the also the grease in there should e replaced every once in awhile.... i us mobil 1 syn grease. it is bright red works great just redid the benz and the streering feels tighter now.... might as well try it.... worst case that isn't it and you have new grease in you wheel bearing and know there in spec.....
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
As BMWJNKY said, it could be road crown (asphalt pitch for drainage). The weights are nothing to worry about though. I have done the same car with and w/o weights. Little to no difference. The weights are supposed to be in place to simulate suspension load at 60mph.
What I believe to be the problem is this;
If you look at your wheels, you will see five holes in between the wheel nuts. Those are designed for an alignment head to bolt up to. Most people (dealers included) do not have the adapter for that. Using that adapter is the most efficient way to do the alignment correctly.
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