93 318is - Engine Running Hot, but not overheating.

[wolfie359]

I just bought the car and had to replace the engine wireing harness and now I'm working on the other querks.

The engine was running hot, but not over heating... So I suspected a faulty or wrong temp thermostat. I replaced it with a 176 F which is O.E. After changing I realized I had to bleed the system, so I did that... now it runs slightly hotter, but yet still doesn't over heat... I removed the thermostat and boiled it and used a thermometer to make sure it was correct, it was... and put it back in. The temp gauge goes to just before the red mark then backs down to half way between the red mark and the line below... it doesn't really move at all while I'm driving or stopped. The heat blows fine, but also doesn't cool it down at all. I know my front electric fan doesn't work, but thats really only used while stopped anyways. My mechanical fan does work though. Yes this car for some reason has both... prolly for the A/C Condenser... All proper shrouds are there...

Any ideas? Maybe some better instructions on how to bleed it?

[darkhorse737]

The temp gauge goes to just before the red mark then backs down to half way between the red mark and the line below... <<< looks like a sticky t-stat that hesitates to open at the right temp. It happens even to new t-stats.

the red zone on your guage means a temp of 220 farenheit or over. if u have a means to measure engine temp. either by using a kitchen thermometer or similar instrument on your engine; try and see if ur guage reads the same... if not, suspect your temp sending unit.

RE: bleed. while u are filling... squeeze the hoses a few times to purge the air pockets you may have in ur system. when the reservoir is full. hold ur last squeeze a few secs.; tighten you bleeder screw and release hose.

[witeshark]

ASAP you wanna get the aux electric fan working too.

[wolfie359]

That electric fan actually do anything for cooling on top of the mechanical fan I have?

Ohh, dark horse.. I bled the system like you said to do... I did it until I was getting nothing but coolant. Took a quick run with it around the block a few times... overheated... I let it go just until the light went on then I shut it off and waited for a bit. After letting it cool down a little (enough to get it home) I started it back up and drove it back home.. Just after I took off from sitting there letting it cool down the Temp guage acted like the thermostat opened up, it cooled fairly quickly for a second but got to that line just below the red zone then stopped again. I drove it home and let it run to see if it would go up from where it was, it didn't... steady locked in the middle of the beginning of the red zone and the line just before it. I'm going to grab a thermometer and see if thats actually accurate...

[witeshark]

Yeah the electric fan does help and must run if you wanna use the A/C.

[darkhorse737]

at the mark where u say ur needle is, your coolant should be gurgling(just about boiling) and most likely be spitting coolant out of the overflow hose. If it isn't, u might have a bad sensor.

t-stats are easy to reach. while it's summertime, u can try and remove the t-stat, and see if it does the same thing... just use tap water while u are troubleshooting. don't need to use coolant until u find your prob.

*don't use the A/C while testing. that way u can find your prob by elimination ;-)

[wolfie359]

Okay, Still overheating... I think its taking longer and longer each time to overheat... Heres some pics this time of temps.

Inside Temp Guage:


This is the temp at the same above:


This is what the temp is at when the light comes on:


This is the temp of the lower radiator hose when the light is on:

[wolfie359]

I'm going to go pull the thermostat and see what that does... Been working on this car all day lol... I hate heating issues... almost as bad as I hate exhaust issues...

*Grunts: "work work..." (Warcraft II lol *

[darkhorse737]

fr what i saw in the pics, if the t-stat of and ur temps are similar, it's a clogged radiator

[wolfie359]

Yeah I think your right... Just removed the Thermostat and ran it down the block and back.. temp stayed around half 177F or so and slowly kept going up... I also found that I had a slowly leaking bleeder valve... Might be looking at $190.00 on a new radiator... Great heat inside the car... gets to 162F when the engine temp is at 190 or so... Glad I don't have to replace that... You know which radiators on which bmw's are swappable with mine? Thinking about heading to the junk yard tomorrow...

Think I can use one from a 92 525I?

[witeshark]

Originally Posted by darkhorse737

fr what i saw in the pics, if the t-stat of and ur temps are similar, it's a clogged radiator

I agree. Normal operating is about 190° F - no more.

[johnnyBgood]

Originally Posted by wolfie359

Yeah I think your right... Just removed the Thermostat and ran it down the block and back.. temp stayed around half 177F or so and slowly kept going up... I also found that I had a slowly leaking bleeder valve... Might be looking at $190.00 on a new radiator... Great heat inside the car... gets to 162F when the engine temp is at 190 or so... Glad I don't have to replace that... You know which radiators on which bmw's are swappable with mine? Thinking about heading to the junk yard tomorrow...

Think I can use one from a 92 525I?

Found this new one from BMW parts for your 3, 5, 7 series for $165.00....

johnny,

G1000-53043 Radiator Valeo IN STOCK $376.75 $165.00

[darkhorse737]

92 525i radiator has the integrated reservoir alongside the radiator so i don't know if it can work.(it's wider by about 3")

*If you are doing the junkshops, lookout also for a fan clutch. It could be a source of ur probs too(especially if u notice that it doesn't spin in step with increased RPM at normal operating temps.)

[darkhorse737]

this thread... from next door's forum might help too:

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...ice-57784.html