3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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I have a '94 325is and the window will not raise to the fully closed position. Also when I try to lock the doors the locks just pop open again. I recall seeing a post on replacing the door switch but I can't seem to find it. Is this the problem if so where can I get a door switch? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
i have a 325i as well and the windows kinda wig out on my too sometimes but not like that. sometimes when i roll them up they go up then down, not sure what it is but windows suck
FYI. There is a switch on the door strike. When the door is closed it makes the switch closing the window. It is a $35.00 part and it cured my issue. No need to tear the door apart like some one suggested.
on my car its like that too....i have to try to lock it at least 2 times before it locks..but one time it took me 3 times...the weird thing is that, when i would open my door from inside my window would go down like how it would before...it would go down a little bit..not even half an inch, and then wen you close it..it's suppose to go up again...but what went wrong with mine was, i would only drop a little bit when i would open the door from the outside...from the inside ( i still do this now ) i would have roll down the window a little bit then when i lock the door i would just hold my key there and it would roll it while the key is position of locking..weird...it drives me crazy but its okay..
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I also have this problem on my car. When I press the passenger side window button all the way down the window is supposed to go all the way up regardless of whether or not you keep holding onto the button. When i do this the window goes up and then comes down a little bit without fully closing. I have to gradually roll the window up for it to stay in place
my '94 325 IS has the same issue...this is what cured my problem: just lube up the hasp!(the one on the door) and if you look the bottom of that hasp is probably worn off the black covering...i hit it with a quick mig weld tack to raise the amount of metal that will contact that switch in the door strike, ground it off nice and smooth with a dremel and it has actually not given me one problem since...the whole thing is you could spend alot of money on that stuff replacing parts, but the mechanical connection of the hasp to the strike switch is the whole problem...it worked great for me...hope this helps
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