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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 06-29-2004, 04:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have heard problems when people installed an M3 clutch into their 318 because they don't have the power to keep it spinning, and therefor lose rpms between shifts... causing you to engage in the next gear at a low RPM and "bog".

My question... Will this occur with a 325is as well?

Anyone put an M3 Clutch in their 325is?
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Old 06-29-2004, 10:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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no its should be ok for the 325.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Furious... I like the new sig!

Anyone actually done this before?
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by geoff@bmw@Jun 30 2004, 12:21 PM
Thanks Furious... I like the new sig!

Anyone actually done this before?
umm i think i remember hearing about it before but im not sure youll have to tell us how it turns out!! one thing you can do is just rev it between gears hahaha

David
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Old 06-30-2004, 02:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That whole concept of the clucth droppign fast you have to deal with. My friend just ptu a ACT clutch in his FD3s and it drops hella fast. You just have to be better at shifting.
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Old 06-30-2004, 04:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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autotechnica put a m3 clutch in his 318 (I'm 90% sure he did anyways)... he should have some info for ya.
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have the M3 clutch installed on my 318. I never had problems with RPM's falling inbetween shifts. I believe someone else was making that assumption, it definitely was not a problem I've been experiencing. What I did say was that the clutch griped very nicely and that I could even chrip the tires in 4th. I can feel the clutch bite in each gear which actually made acceleration a lot quicker. I just have a much rougher idle and occasionally it would want to stall returning to idle speed. I've heard this is normal with a lighter flywheel, especially after you really heat it up from hard driving. I'm using an M3 single mass flywheel which is significantly lightly than my stock dual mass flywheel which would explain why my engine would want to stall.

Anyways, if you do decide to get this done, get the '96+ pressure plate, and try to find a single mass flywheel, avoid getting anything from '95 M3's. They had the 3.0L early model M3 clutches which weren't all that great. The '96+ pressure plates can take a lot more heat.

325 => M3 clutch is actually a very easy conversion. It was a lot more complicated to make it work with the 318. My mechanic had to do a lot of grinding and modifications. More parts had to be replaced as well.

Bry
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks Bry!

Well if my flywheel is in good shape, all i'm going to do is put the new clutch in...

But if I have to do the flywheel too, then i'm going to go with the M3 gear...
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So 96 M3 clutch + flywheel = zing?

Sounds like a plan for next summer....

Kevin
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have no idea whether you can just swap the clutch disc and pressure plate, you may need the flywheel as well (not 100% sure). You'll need the Slave cyl, release bearing from the M3. I believe the pilot bearing and release fork are the same.

Make sure if you're buying a use pressure plate and/or flyhweel to have the metal surface sanded and smoothened. Otherwise the clutch disc won't contact properly.

96+ is the way to go, '95 M3 also has the heavier dual mass flywheel which is bad.

Bry
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