325i oil leak after synthetic change - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 03:08 PM
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325i oil leak after synthetic change

Recently purchased a 94 325i sedan for my son. Car has 80k on it and was mechanically pristine prior to him allowing Jiffy Lube to perform an engine flush and switch to synthetic oil. Now oil is leaking from the front of the motor. 10 seconds or so after shutdown after running for a few minutes oil begins running in a fairly steady stream off the low side of the oil pan. I just can't tell if it is the crank seal or oil housing. I know this horse has been well flogged before but any advice is appreciated.
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 07:07 AM
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This is not unusual, the crud left behind by the original dino oil is being shifted by the synthetic oil, resulting in imperfect seals. Assuming you are using the appropriate grade of synthetic oil, you have a couple of options:-
1) Check the torque on the oil pan bolts and keep a close eye on the oil level for the next 5k in the hope that as the synthetic oil works its magic, the seals have not sustained terminal damage and the leak stops; or
2) Start replacing seals and run synthetic oil from day 1.
I have successfully converted from dino to synthetic on an older BMW, but initially changed the oil pan gasket and ran semi-synthetic oil for 2 changes before converting to the fully synthetic. If the car has been serviced regularly and was using a good dino oil, the pan gasket may do it for you. Degrease the engine thoroughly and use a torch to check the source of the leak after driving the car for a short distance.
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 03:00 PM
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Thanks David, pretty sure it's not the pan gasket. Plan to start by pulling the crank pulley and balancer to get a better look. Hoping it's not the hub seal but I've purchased one and the filter housing gasket as well.
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#4 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 05:01 PM
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It may sound stupid, but check that the filter has been torqued properly, I have also seen them work loose and leak after being installed and not torqued properly.
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#5 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 05:56 PM
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A "flush" is a bad thing. Usually flush's involve pressuring oil into the crankcase which can cause several issues.

Check the oil filter housing as their is a gasket their that may need replacement. pictures would be super helpful.


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#6 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 03:41 PM
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Thanks to both David and Lord Vader. Took the girl apart this weekend. Thankfully it turned out to be the filter housing gasket. Unfortunately, in the process of removing the fan I guess I managed to damage the water pump, or maybe it was just on it's way out. So... now I get to swap out the pump. Knew better, spent the better part of two hours trying to lock the pulley without the right tool. Found a template for it one of the other forums here, made it in half an hour with bar stock laying around and had the fan off in about a minute. Just wish my kids were a little mechanical. Neither one can change a bicycle tire. Oh well, maybe the grandaughter has it, she seem to like being around to help when I'm working on anything. Thanks again.
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 04:39 PM
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While you have the water pump out, do yourself a favour and replace the plastic thermostat housing with an alloy one. I installed a high performance water pump from Pelican parts. alloy thermostat housing and radiator and the cooling system is now better than new.
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#8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 07:14 AM
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Thanks for the heads up. Had already planned on making the tstat housing swap as well. Kid going to pass on a new radiator as it was replaced about six months before we purchased the car. Parts ordered Monday and should be here by Friday.
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#9 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 04:59 PM
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If you havent already, get a Stewart water pump. The stock one is a plastic impeller known to fail, but the Stewart ones are a heavy duty metal impeller. When my pump failed it was the imput seal that was leaking which caused me to replace it, not the impeller. But when the impeller fails in can do catasrophic damage.


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#10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Vader View Post
If you havent already, get a Stewart water pump. The stock one is a plastic impeller known to fail, but the Stewart ones are a heavy duty metal impeller. When my pump failed it was the imput seal that was leaking which caused me to replace it, not the impeller. But when the impeller fails in can do catasrophic damage.
Did not get a Stewart but is a heavy duty with metal impeller and double lip seal. Have a very good friend who works for Renntech. I know i blaspheme mentioning a Mercedes tuner on a BMW site. Got the pump, aluminum housing and extreme duty hoses for way cheap.

Thanks for all your input
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#11 (permalink) Old 07-11-2013, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Vader View Post
If you havent already, get a Stewart water pump. The stock one is a plastic impeller known to fail, but the Stewart ones are a heavy duty metal impeller. When my pump failed it was the imput seal that was leaking which caused me to replace it, not the impeller. But when the impeller fails in can do catasrophic damage.
+1 - Mine is a Stewart. I don't think anyone would be too bitter about you using recommendations from a Euro tuner. There is nothing wrong with the likes of Mercedes, Audi and in spite of some current issues, Volkswagen.
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#12 (permalink) Old 07-11-2013, 09:33 AM
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True, while Renntech originally started as a top flight tuner of Mercedes. Articles in C & D and R & T too numerous to mention, they now work on just about every type of high end euro cars. Thanks again all your advice. This site and it's members are fantastic.
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#13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2013, 05:33 PM
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Having a good friend working for Renntech is pretty sweet I bet. You just want a heavy duty pump with metal impeller. Stewart is known as the best thats why I recommend them.


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#14 (permalink) Old 07-12-2013, 08:09 AM
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It can be at times. Brian had his own shop many years ago specializing in euro cars. We had a mutual friend who campaigned both dirt and asphalt modifieds we crewed for. I spent so much time there he made me get ASE certified. That's why I said I knew better than to lockup the pulley with a pry bar and not the tool. Haven't turned too many wrenches in the past 15 years or so though. Kids, wife and life in general put an end to having hotrods and crewing a race car. But my kid says he wants to learn to work on the Bimmer himself so maybe my tools and scanner won't just collect dust anymore.
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#15 (permalink) Old 07-12-2013, 11:08 PM
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Thats good to hear. Always great when your kid expresses a mutual interest in something. It will be good for him as he gets older.


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