325 tds starting problem - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 07:48 AM
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325 tds starting problem

hi

wondering if any1 can point me in the right direction, i have been silly and put heating oil into the car with a mix of 20 w50 mineral motor oil got about a full tank well two half tanks 20L diesel and 1 liter oil (x2) then i notticed the hard start problems, seems to be when i leave the car over 5 mins its very hard to catch it trys hard but wont catch then when it does it revs rite up to 3k or more with quite abit of smoke then back down to normal idle, its only some times it does the reving bit on startup, but the funny thing is when i get back from a journy shut it off the rite away back on it starts fine without waiting on any lights it fires up rite away.

I have a one way vavle fitted on the fuel line and have also changed the fuel filter 2 times as the first one didn have the water drainer on the bottom, i am notticing smoke coming from the engine bay but think this is to do with to much oil in it going to drain some today. it is also hard to start from cold, and when left for 5 or more mins from warm it will just turn like nothings going to happen then it starts to catch then nothing then bang lol really anoying me and i need her for work on sat to do chinese deliveries for the first time.

I have another 325 tds witht the same year it was my old car that got a bang up the back which made it a write off so spares shouldn be a problem, any help on this would be greatly appreached. Jim
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 03:51 PM
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any1 plz?? drain excess oil out, starting is getting worst when warm but when i jump it in 2nd gear it start right away??
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 04:09 PM
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It's possible the car will run much better once the fuel is cleaned out.

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#4 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witeshark View Post
It's possible the car will run much better once the fuel is cleaned out.
It has had a few full tanks from then and still no better, prob worst, when left for a while after acess crankin the injector light stays on its drainin the batt every time nw
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 08:34 AM
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to up date notticed diesel pissing from the back injector leaking all over the starter motor does this shed any light?
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 09:33 AM
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that would prolly have something to do with it. don't diesels have a pressure of something like 15000 psi? i would start with replacing injectors

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#7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 10:43 AM
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Hard to start from cold points to the in tank lift pump having given up.

I am presuming your tds is the early version without the maf sensor set up.

The hot start being hard to get running after car has sat for a while is due to the fact that the lift pump will only run on a hot engine once it has started,the longer you leave it the more cranking it takes + no lift pump operation so injector pump has to draw its own fuel.

Google replacing 'lift pump with a facet' and have a read through,it is the cheaper option to replace the lift pump at a third of the price.


Your injector light should not be on,it is warning of a injection system malfunction,and this is most probably the crank sensor which lives under the starter motor has been flooded on its electrical connection by the leaking fuel.

The leak is most likely the leak off pipes,the short stub one normally goes and leaks because often it does not get changed when others are replaced.

The revving bit on start up points to your battery only just having enough clout to get it to fire up,so it starts but revs are low,the ecu see's this and gives it some fuel to get speed up.

A duff battery although showing good voltage can have poor amps and this can cause all manner of warning lights to come on,ie transprogram etc due to there being not enough system voltage.


Forgot to add.hot start is worse after time as posted above no lift pump till engine is running,also the inj pump runs hot circa 85 deg so the fuel evaporates in the inj pump a bit,hence some cranking to get some in to it.

It will run ok ish on the heating oil so this is not really anything to do with the problems you have.

Last edited by MADDOUG; 09-10-2009 at 10:48 AM.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-13-2009, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADDOUG View Post
Hard to start from cold points to the in tank lift pump having given up.

I am presuming your tds is the early version without the maf sensor set up.

The hot start being hard to get running after car has sat for a while is due to the fact that the lift pump will only run on a hot engine once it has started,the longer you leave it the more cranking it takes + no lift pump operation so injector pump has to draw its own fuel.

Google replacing 'lift pump with a facet' and have a read through,it is the cheaper option to replace the lift pump at a third of the price.


Your injector light should not be on,it is warning of a injection system malfunction,and this is most probably the crank sensor which lives under the starter motor has been flooded on its electrical connection by the leaking fuel.

The leak is most likely the leak off pipes,the short stub one normally goes and leaks because often it does not get changed when others are replaced.

The revving bit on start up points to your battery only just having enough clout to get it to fire up,so it starts but revs are low,the ecu see's this and gives it some fuel to get speed up.

A duff battery although showing good voltage can have poor amps and this can cause all manner of warning lights to come on,ie transprogram etc due to there being not enough system voltage.


Forgot to add.hot start is worse after time as posted above no lift pump till engine is running,also the inj pump runs hot circa 85 deg so the fuel evaporates in the inj pump a bit,hence some cranking to get some in to it.

It will run ok ish on the heating oil so this is not really anything to do with the problems you have.
Hi and thanks for the help, so far i have taken the car to a well known spark engineer who put the car onto the computer and it came up with an engine speed sensor error could be to do with the fuel spilled over the sensor and yea it was the small stump on the end injecter that was leaking, from then fitted a new one still hard to start fitted a new speed sensor / crank sensor which i believe is the same thing, thing is the error is still there and hard to start could it be the wiring? replaced ecu just off hand no cure, also replaced all relays under bonnet. plz help now taking the manifold off to look deeper i see the wires go into a black long box under the manifold, strang but true i went out this morning and car wouldn start removed the crank sensor connector and it started ok but reved as sensor wan not connected reconnected when engine was on and it went to idle ok. this does not work when engine is warm as i have tried it a few times. any pointers would be great thanks. Jim
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2009, 01:13 PM
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new cold start way

car is a real pain when warm and cold but if i do this only when cold with glow plug light on- what i do is disconnect the crank sensor and it starts right way revvin tho and lots of black smoke then quickly plug it back and it returns to idle, even when the batt is very low, but wont start this way when warm. any ideas any1? the engineer also said is def an electric fault, could the diesel or oil be in the part where the other end of the crank sensor lives? i see there is a long black box also injector sensor connects into seems possible as the fault is still show on the diag. real nightmare plz help peeps. thanks

Last edited by jamesy_863; 09-13-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-14-2009, 12:43 PM
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Should not start with crank sensor unplugged ??.Just posted that on your other thread .

You can test a inj pump to see if it works by connecting a live and an earth to certain pins in the inj pump wiring connections.I do not know which ones these are,I have seen it mentioned on Using Vegetable oil as a diesel fuel by the main man on there who knows about these things (HC11, aka high compression 2).

May be worth joining up and sending him a pm on the forum

By connecting those wires the engine will run but only tick over.This is to check if pump will work and I presume if it does run then it is without ecu control.

The long black box underneath inlet is just to keep cables tidy.

Ask on the veg forum,and see what comes of it.
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#11 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 05:42 PM
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update on nightmare

Strange it is as starting when unpluged. thanks for the other reply to lol ;-) i also found that it wasn just a lazy batt i was dealing with but the starter motor and it finely packed in now sparking and dead with two fully charged batts. just seem to have got worst. funny thing is the starter still cracked the engine when crank sensor was disconected and starter near dead ummm, i know it must have been the diesel leak that killed off the starter quicker but could this of been the whole cause of the problem, also the starter only had the left side bolt attached but was well tight. should be getting new starter tomorrow, have removed old one. thanks for the replys and yea iv heard of that guy seems to well know his stuff going to join when i find out the results after starter is fitted. Thanks again . Jim
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