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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 04-15-2009, 12:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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318i suspension upgrade

I've found a guy parting out a highly modified 95 325is, but most of the work was done in shops, not his garage.

He has a set of FK coilovers, all four corners he will sell for $500.00. I know this is a great deal, but I already got burned on the M3 wheels I bought from him.

Will these fit on my 93 318i? I think it will entail new strut mounts to prevent problems in the trunk but anyone know for sure if it will work?
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If they are adjustable rate they will work. If not, they will still "work" but the front will be a little bit too stiff. You will want to use convertible rear shock mounts or E46 rear shock mounts just to be safe. If I recall they had switched to the link mounted front sway bar half way through 92 or maybe just for the 93 model so you should be fine there. Just make sure you get all mounting hardware. I would find installation instructions online and use them as a reference to make sure you don't get burned.
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So I picked up the coilovers, springs and rear shocks. I got everything mounted, seems to fit right. Thanks for the post on the topic thekid.

I think they are adjustable rate as well as height, but I am taking it in for an alignment tomorrow so I'll have my mechanic tune the front and back.

The biggest pain in the butt in this job was trying to figure out how to get the stock springs out out. I ended up just prying them out with a monster screw driver.

Also, I put the adjustable springs in without using the rubber pad type piece that was between the stock shock and frame... anyone know if this was correct?
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by saltycdawg View Post
Also, I put the adjustable springs in without using the rubber pad type piece that was between the stock shock and frame... anyone know if this was correct?
Should be fine. Those typically just help to reduce nvh.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I don't think you need them on coilovers any way. Those are called a bump stop. They just help if the suspension bottoms out. If they are adjustable you will want to slightly lower the spring rate to get it back to "like stock" distribution. Alternatively just drive it and if you feel over steer raise the front if under steer lower the front. If they are only height adjustable you may need to lower the front slightly as it will sit a tad high due to being set for the 6cly engine.

I'm glad everything turned out well.

edit: nvm just re-read your post. That is the spring pad. You may find the car a bit low without it, but I suppose you could just raise it a bit to compensate.

Last edited by thekid; 04-20-2009 at 09:14 PM. Reason: re-read orig post
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My car feels brand new! the new suspension in great! Now I think I'll probably need sway bars next and the bushings on the front and back wishbones. The front is showing quite a bit of play when the wheels are torqued.

Also, when I had it in the air doing the alignement my mechanic asked me where I got the spring compression tool..."Whats that?" I said. Turns out prying the rear springs out with a screwdriver as well as the front suspension is kinda dangerous.. lol. Guess I'm lucky they were shot and didn't have much life left in them.

I lowered the front about 1.25 inches and the back 1.0 inches. Looks great and the front camber was only out -1.0 degrees so I shouldn't be eating my tires up too bad. I guess the OEM recommended camber is -0.6 degrees.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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