i think if you did it , you would have to change the pully to compensate for the car wanting to stall out.. also if you change the pully you would have to change the belt. but i bet it would work fine.
Installation of an alternator of this output should not be necessary unless you have added some extremely large driving lights or a serious sound system with huge amplifiers. There should be no changes required in regards to the regulator as it will be incorporated in the alternator (if you were installing a 200 Amp generator it would be a different story)(ps the regulator adjusts the voltage level not current). The one change I would suggest is to install a new battery that has a higher Amp Hour specification.
inefficent amps draw a crapton of power. I have a 95% effecient amp, produces 1400W, draws 80 amps, more than the spare electricity my alternator is capable of producing, which will cuase a voltage drop. To run correctly, I need about 120 amp alternator to just get by.
Now, if you have a 2000W, class A amp, your going to need a lot of juice to feed that sort of beast, some 150+ amps @ 14V.
I sugest, once again, to get the 200A alternator since it PRODUCES power, not STORES it, like a battery does. Yes, a yellow\red top battery will help in the Sudden Electrical Demand Dept., along side a nice sized capacitor (1 -1.5 F per 1,000W).
Dude, I'm tellng you, a 200amp alternator is not necessary. An amp isn't going to draw it's rated amperage, unless the rated amperage is at the RMS output. Not only that, but you don't want to rely upon your alternator for your amp's current draw. Ya know why? Because your amp would induce a voltage drop across the board. All of your accessories included.
That is why I would recomend a good capacitor and not some massive alternator. You basically want to design your audio (in terms of power consumption) independent of the rest of the electronics in the car. If you don't the rest of your electronics will "bogg down" everytime your sub amp tries to produce sufficient power for your sub to produce a 40Hz roll.
Buy a 1.25-2.0 farad cap and a gell cell battery like what Bitcore recomended-a yellow top optima is what I use and recomend.
Originally posted by jllphan@Jul 2 2004, 02:07 PM You basically want to design your audio (in terms of power consumption) independent of the rest of the electronics in the car.* If you don't the rest of your electronics will "bogg down" everytime your sub amp tries to produce sufficient power for your sub to produce a 40Hz roll.
....and you need a charging system to make up for these large boggs. Wasn't he putting a 4,000W system in there? 285 amps at 14V, 333amps at 12V. So the rest of this post is based on the assumption he's gonna stick a 4,000 W amp in his car.
I never said 'don't mess with the batteries, just get an alternator,' That's bad. I probably should have rephrased "yes batteries would help." to something like "you also need to upgrade the battery system" But, you also don't want to overwork the alternator. They don't produce their rated output until the engine's revving fairly high, and that only happens at takeoff and at highway speeds (if that). At engine idle or at a 1,500 RPM cruise speed, alternators produce around half of their rated output. Another concern is heat. Electronics don't like heat. If you overwork a 120 amp alternator, constantly charging the battery system, it's going to get hot, causing it's parts (mechanical, and voltage regulator) to fail prematurely. It's all about headroom.
My stock 323 comes with an 80 amp alternator. Stock low powered amplifier, the car's ignition system, lights and cabin display units. That's about it. In all, that's probably around 25, MAYBE 35 amps. [Go add up the fuse box’s fuse ratings...] Why the extra 45 amps? The engine isn't redlining all of the time, so you can't get away with a 35 amp alternator, the engineers realized the alternator isn't going to produce it's full rating all of the time, so they gave us at least double what we need so the car would operate correctly and so we have a little headroom.
EDIT: buuhh99, if your putting in a 2,000W or less amp (class D or better), you can get away with a 120A alternator, just be sure to get a beefy capaciutor and battery.
There are two kinds of 4000watt systems out there. The first involves amplifiers alone costing in the thousands of dollars necessitating multiple deep cycle batteries and capacitors just to provide adequate power for the amplifiers.
The second involves brands like Crossfire, Rockwood, and Hollywood and claim thousands of watts, but give it to you only at +5%THD at which point all the speakers involved shoot their polepieces right through their voicecoils.
Hopefully we are talking about building the first type. If this is the case, I digress. I had no idea you were talking about such power.
I would comment that unless he is planning on totally stripping the car's interior and turning it into a dB drag car, such amplification is pointless. I was able to reach well into the 140db range with under 500watts RMS input power. Anyone who knows, you would not want to be inside a car at this SPL.
BTW, your amperage draw ratings seems a little high. The largest amp I sell at $1500.00 outputs 3000w/RMS 5000w/PEAK at 14.4v. At 14.4v it draws 30A and at its max rated output it draws 65A. Keep in mind multiple amps will draw more current per watt than a single amp.
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