1993 BMW 325i seems like no end to the problems!!! HELP! - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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#1 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 06:41 PM
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1993 BMW 325i seems like no end to the problems!!! HELP!

The water valve was bad when i bought the car and I decided I would try to find it in a junk yard or else where for cheap but that idea failed. I went ahead and bought the water valve from the stealership for $325!!! I figured if it would fix the problem then I would just take the big price hit and replace it....but NO!!! The no heat problem still exists but the overheating problem is gone. At the moment I have the thermostat out and will replace it once I get the new thermostat housing because the plastic one cracked when I was tightening it on. I replaced the radiator, water valve and thermostat with no prevail! I also just checked the oil cap and there is a milky white residue on the inside....head gasket leaking? I made an attempt to get air out of the system and I had heat when doing the process but when I closed everything back up the heat went away. I am loosing patience with this car and if I can't get this problem fixed in two days I am going to be forced to sell it for an unbelievely low price. I need help or point me to a good mechanic near Chicago.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 06:47 PM
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I had some very weird overheating problems with my 97 328. I also had the signs of a blown head gasket. I put Bar's Leak head gasket fix in it.

Get the 30 some dollar a bottle stuff. It is compatible with anitifreeze, so you don't have to flush the system out before you use it.

It fixed a ton of my problems.

To tell if you have a head gasket leak.

Rough idle.
Loosing coolant without a visible link.
Very rough running, when you first start it.
Over heating.
More than normal vapor coming from the exhaust.

This stuf works.
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#3 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlf View Post
I had some very weird overheating problems with my 97 328. I also had the signs of a blown head gasket. I put Bar's Leak head gasket fix in it.

Get the 30 some dollar a bottle stuff. It is compatible with anitifreeze, so you don't have to flush the system out before you use it.

It fixed a ton of my problems.

To tell if you have a head gasket leak.

Rough idle.
Loosing coolant without a visible link.
Very rough running, when you first start it.
Over heating.
More than normal vapor coming from the exhaust.

This stuf works.
Oh man, I can put a check next to all those problems!!! You are sure this stuff really works? Reason I ask is because I have heard that it doesn't work very well and is only good for a temporary fix if anything. Did you take any special procedures when doing this? Because I just might try it, I really have nothing to lose.
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 08:07 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
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witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice
That kind of gasket fix won't last forever; you'll have to keep an eye on it. For a leak in the cylinder head gasket, the only real fix is replacement.

BMW

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#5 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 06:56 PM
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I just did a compression test and found this:

Cylinder
1: OK
2: OK
3: OK
4: OK
5: 90psi at 5 cranks and 150psi at a little over 10 cranks
6: 90psi at 5 cranks and 150psi at a little over 10 cranks

I am curious about what this means, hope the rings aren't going.

There was quite a bit oil on plug 1 and was getting less and less as it went on and till plug 6 there was no oil on the plug at all, infact it looked like what salt looks like on the exterior of a car. Could it possibly be that my head gasket is blown and or an intake gasket?
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 07:13 PM
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In a healthy engine all of the spark plugs should be fairly clean. In a worn engine they may not be clean but they all should look the same.

A clean spark plug among other ones that are oily, leads me to believe it is a head gasket. The water leaking into that cylinder is washing it clean.

You could fill the coolant up in the car. Let it run until it gets good and warm and pressurizes the system. Then shut it off and wait awhile. Pull the plugs and see if any of them are wet or if there is water in the cylinders.

As far as the bars leak is concerned. Alot of people online say it won't last etc. Mines doing just fine. Thirty dollars is alot cheaper than changing a head gasket. Even if it only buys you six months. Atleast it will be warm when you're fixing it.

Here's what I used. Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Fix


Let me know how well it works for you.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 07:13 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
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I'd say there's a strong suspicion that the head gasket does leak.

BMW

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#8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 08:29 PM
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Thanks a lot for all the input. I really appreciate it...keeps me at a calm state of mind lol

Any way, I was looking at other stuff called Steel Seal, it says it only takes 30minutes and it looks like it works great. What do you all think?

Here is a link
Repairs Blown Head Gaskets With No Disassembly | Lifetime Guarantee | Steel Seal
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#9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 08:51 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
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It looks more convincing than the other one. I guess if you have a leak, it can't really hurt to try it. They are explicit about their directions, and I'd have a close look at that guarantee.

BMW

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#10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2009, 12:05 AM
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I would use the bars leaks.

It's cheaper and it has powdered copper in it to fill in the gaps. What you posted is a pure liquid.

And don't buy what they are saying about the particles clogging stuff up. They use the same stuff in nuclear reactor cooling lines. http://sti.srs.gov/fulltext/ms2004762/ms2004762.pdf

The active ingredient in all these things is sodium silicate.

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#11 (permalink) Old 01-04-2009, 11:30 AM
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Alright, cool. Thanks so much guys for helping out. I will get some of that Bars stuff and try it out and let you all know how it went.
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#12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 01:34 PM
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So, I decided to just go ahead and buy the parts needed to do a head gasket replacement. I needed to do some other work as well so its just one more thing to add to the list. Aside from the head gasket I have to replace the sunroof motor, driver side window motor, power steering pump and some other random interior stuff. So its not that big of a deal to me. Much better to just replace the gasket anyway.
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#13 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RisingSt0rm View Post

I am curious about what this means, hope the rings aren't going.

There was quite a bit oil on plug 1 and was getting less and less as it went on and till plug 6 there was no oil on the plug at all, infact it looked like what salt looks like on the exterior of a car. Could it possibly be that my head gasket is blown and or an intake gasket?
Is the oil in the sparkplug well or on the end of the plug? If you have oil on the end of the plug, I would say the oil is washing past the rings. If it's in the plug wells, then I would say it's a valve cover gasket. Might be time to do an engine swap.
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#14 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 02:37 PM
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it was on the plug itself and in the well on cylinder 1 and 2 and maybe 3 I cant remember, but I removed the head a few days ago and took it into a shop. They did a test on it and found a crack by the valve from the water jacket. The head gasket was pretty good and the head was warped a very little bit. They quoted me $600 to fix the head...that is outrageous so I looked at some junk yards and found a used head off of a good engine for $300. I'm going to take that one and get it tested. Seems like a good move to me.
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#15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 10:44 PM
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it was on the plug itself and in the well on cylinder 1 and 2 and maybe 3 I cant remember, but I removed the head a few days ago and took it into a shop. They did a test on it and found a crack by the valve from the water jacket. The head gasket was pretty good and the head was warped a very little bit. They quoted me $600 to fix the head...that is outrageous so I looked at some junk yards and found a used head off of a good engine for $300. I'm going to take that one and get it tested. Seems like a good move to me.
I broke down and let them fix the head, only problem is that they found 3 cracks by multiple valves and just got me a remanufactured one and pressure tested it for free because the welds did not work on my original one. I am working on bleeding the lifters and just general cleaning and prepping for the replacement of the remanufactured cylinder head. Thanks for all your help everyone. I will keep you all updated on progress.

Last edited by RisingSt0rm; 02-19-2009 at 10:47 PM.
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