3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
I'm working on a '85 325e 2-door. Kids shot out the passanger door glass and the wing window Friday night. Seems to be the latest craze in town the last few weeks. The car was parked in my driveway with a close circuit camera (4) recording the event but police detectives claim they couldn't see the tag. Therefore it's only speculation. I guess since the kids didn't write their names on any of the cars, it's impossible to prove without a shadow of doubt, whom did it. And then they could claim a sellection of abuses, society is at fault, voices made us do it, etc...
Until my car has glass in it again. I'm stuck driving a '85 Dodge 1-ton 4x4 dually with a 8x10ft dump bed on it. Granny 4-speed with an oiled down clutch disc (grab & jerk) no exhaust, no carpet, no radio, have to pour gas in the carb to get it started.... In other words, it's a Dodge...
My question. This '85 325e has power door windows. How difficult is this to replace the door glass? any tricks I need to know about? How about the wing window in back? Any interior pannels have to be removed? Pop rivets etc.
I've also read a few sites looking for glass. Ebay has a left wing window but no right. Anyone near Kansas have spare glass their willing to sell/ship?
Umm, I don't know if this helps, but It's pretty damn easy to access it. I myself have never replaced a window, but my passenger window does not work, and the previous owners of my car popped off the factory cap and stripped the thing to make the window roll up and down manually, so I had to take the door pannel off and all that to push the window back up.
It's really simple, on the passenger door, the cap on the handle (Driver has electric mirror controls if you had that option), just pop that off, there's a screw in there, take that out, and also below the arm rest, there's 2 screw's that hold that own, remove all 3 of those, then its just held on by plastic clips.
When removing the doorpanel though, the chrome molding and ruber molding where the door panel meets the door at the top, that is all held on by metal clip things, so once you get all the clips popped out on the door pannel, you have to push the door pannel up to get the clips off. Then your window is fairly accessable, looks like it will be no problem from there, I hope that helps.
**NOTE** When reassembling, the ruber stuff and chrome molding or the top of the door panel, make sure the clip by the door lock is pushed all the way to the right, or your doors wont lock, or you wont be able to get the plastic door lock cover screwed in cause the clip will be in the way. Very simple, easy problem fixed if you run into it, just slide it over.
Thank you Andre, good info. In the past I had to replace the drivers side door lock mechinism so taking the door pannel off is as you state. However, window regulators are another story. Cutting up hands inside a door is not something I look forward too. I know once I get started, it's straight forward. That rear wing window may be the easiest I'm not sure. Tonight all I could do was wrap the car up to keep the rain & snow out. Unfortunately our forcast for the week is either rain or snow. So I have at least one week to locate glass. If anyone has right side (door & rear pop-out) contact me. Oh, and the car could use a working speedometer. Hasn't worked for three or four years now...Any advice is welcome.
Hehe, about the speedo, have you checked the fuses? I am sorry if this insults your intelligents, but I had a problem where my speedo and tach would not work, and I could not figure out what was wrong, then I checked the fuses, and BINGO it worked =) I doubt your problem is the same as mine though, thats a long time to go without checking the fuses. Sorry, I hope this is your problem though =)
No that doesn't insult me. Hell I didn't know the speedo had a fuse. I'll bet that is what's wrong. I've had it out a few times, tried floating solder on a few areas of the boards inside it. It would intermitantly work, a tap would make it go for a while. After resoldering it, it worked for several months without a blink. Then it just stopped. The car has over 300K miles and the speedo is original. I can't blame it for stopping.
A local salvage wants $65 for each window. I called a few friends that have spare parts but for some reason, only left side glass. I would think if a car is parked along a street. The drivers side is exposed to vandals passing by. Therefore left side glass would be more difficult to find. I spoke with the original owner, he'd replaced teh windsheild once but never had a broken side window. Thought he might have advice on what to expect replacing these windows. This weekend is suppose to be in the 50's and sunny. Better get the tools out.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.