Window Crank - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 07-16-2004, 09:39 AM
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325 '87 - front passenger power window stopped working and I don't really want to get involved with replacing motor/parts. Is it possible to simply install a manual crank (there's a hole for it) to override the power window function?
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 06:44 AM
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not quite, but there's an emergency tool that fits there. get it from your bmw distributor.

a lot of times the motor doesn't break and it's just a matter of bad connections. i suggest you try 12 volts directly to the motor to see if it works.
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 08:32 AM
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Sounds good. I'll give it a try. Any good spots to add the 12 volts? I'd like to avoid taking the door panel off. You can tell I'm adverse to dismantling any cosmetic/interior parts.
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#4 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 09:36 AM
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Yeah, I think I have a bad connection too. My driver's side window doesn't work sometimes, but then I just open the door and shut it again and it works. Must be something loose or something.

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#5 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 05:24 PM
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I read on another forum that the motors are known to have problems keeping engaged with the gears (?). Sounds like we may need to open up the door panels and check it out. They indicated that it may just need to have some bolts tighten. I'll check it out in the next few days.
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#6 (permalink) Old 07-21-2004, 03:47 AM
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the connecting plugs between the door and the body often become verdigrised over the years. check that out first and try to clean them off. if they're really bad you can buy new sockets and pins for some bucks. if the motors don't work then, i suggest you remove your door panels and try running only the motor itself. use jumper cables or something. positive to battery, negative to body.
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-21-2004, 02:03 PM
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Troubleshooting steps so far:
1-when pressing the window switch there is no noise from the window, but all of the switch lights dim (indicates a voltage drop from something)

2-unpluged the door-to-chassis connector and pressed switch, no dimming (voltage drop must be from inside the door).

3-I got up the nerve to remove the door panel.

4-unplugged the connector just preceding the window motor and pressed the switch, no dimming (looks like the motor or gears are locked up) Put a meter on the line and got 12volts, so I'm getting power to the motor.

5-used the emergency/manual window crank and the window went up and down ok (window still in its tracks).

At this point I had to stop and return to work (this is unauthorized "by wife" work so I have to use my lunch hours.

Any ideas to further test the motor, or suggestions about replacing motor and/or other parts? Your comments are greatly appreciated since I'm a newbie to hands-on repairs. I do love my 87-325 and my son wants it as his first car when he turns 16.
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#8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 12:26 AM
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I have heard that the window rails are prone to gunking up. A friend of mine said that i could fix my passenger window by using some lithium grease or something to relubricate the window lines. Then open / close the window manually (with the screw thingy.) a few times, and then try it again. That may work for you. I have a similar situation, my switch dims, and I can hear the motor work under the load (I've got the m10 :P) so I mean. I know its trying, its just not working.
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#9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 12:18 PM
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I'm going out now to do just that. Well, I bought a used motor on Ebay just in case, but hopefully I can get the thing fixed w/o a new regulator. I got the door panel and vapor barrier off yesterday, but then it got too dark to work. I did plug in the new motor and it runs great. Is lithium grease the best for the regulator, or does anyone else know of a better lube?

Oh, and Halon my car is originally from Lexington, KY. So I guess there's a BMW dealership there.
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#10 (permalink) Old 07-26-2004, 04:36 PM
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Don Jacobs Honda has a BMW dept. and service garage here, I don't know about a ginormous BMW dealership... but we have a Mercades Benz dealer, and just got a Jaguar Dealer. Test drive time, baby!
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#11 (permalink) Old 07-27-2004, 01:33 PM
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Do I have to remove the window?

Anyone know the procedure for removing the electric window motor/regulator on an '87 325? Or a website that has them?
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#12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2004, 03:34 PM
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Problem solved. Through some great help from one of the forum members, I managed to remove the window motor, without removing the window. Turns out that the motor was locked up (likely due to rust) Lubricated and unlocked it runs like a top. The cheapskate that I am will keep using it until it can't be fixed or patched. Thanks for all your help.
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#13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2004, 03:49 PM
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i needed a new actuator cause mine would roll down but not up...so what did i do? pushed the up button and applied slight pressure on the window in an upward direction...why did i do this you might ask? Complete Laziness...hahaha did it for 6 months too....

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#14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2004, 04:08 PM
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#15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2004, 01:08 PM
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...continuing info. Put the old motor back in, but it doesn't have enough power to move the window consistently. I guess I'll have to pop for a new motor
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