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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 12-04-2004, 02:30 PM
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Hey everyone-

I have a slight problem with my '87 325. The tachometer doesn't work. I've searched this forum and others for info, and have read that it might be a fuse. However, the fuse that is mentioned also connects to the temperature guage and the clock, both of which work. All of my other guages work, could it still be a worn-out battery in the instrument panel? Or is the more likely culprit simply a bad connection?

The tach has worked once: my car sat for a week or so while I gathered funds for and then installed a new starter, then when I started it up, the tach worked. However, the next time I started my car, it didn't work. Also, when I turn my car off, the tach quickly flicks from zero to ~1000 rpm and then back to 0; there seems to be some sort of connection.

What would be the best place to check? I suppose I'll have to check behind the instrument panel, but because that involves taking off the steering wheel, I'd like to know if there's somewhere else I should check first. (it's not that big of a deal, I'd just like to check the simpler places first.)

Thanks,
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My 1987 325 is no longer. Rain and an relatively inexperienced driver are not a good combination, to say the least. Luckily no one was seriously injured.
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#2 (permalink) Old 12-04-2004, 02:51 PM
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FYI, you don't need to take the steering wheel off to get the instrument cluster out.

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#3 (permalink) Old 12-05-2004, 04:55 AM
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You need Haynes manual or so i think. Everything there is described step by step...
Probably your right dash connector is bad(the dash has two connectors at the back, the left is mainly for the left part of the dash and the right is for .. the right ) Your tach circuit board may have gone bad too. Just take the dash off, take it apart and search for bad joints and loose connections. This works fine most of the time.

Quote:
FYI, you don't need to take the steering wheel off to get the instrument cluster out.
confirmed.

Hope this is helpful

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#4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2004, 03:15 PM
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Oh, great, that makes it quite a bit easier. I don't really want to take the wheel off because I don't know how hard it is to align it correctly afterwards. But now this is a bit of a simpler task.

I have the Bentley manual, and in the instructions to remove the instrument panel it says to remove the steering wheel as well.

I'll play with it a bit and see what happens, then. Thanks for your help.

-plusnone

My 1987 325 is no longer. Rain and an relatively inexperienced driver are not a good combination, to say the least. Luckily no one was seriously injured.
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#5 (permalink) Old 12-05-2004, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by plusnone@Dec 5 2004, 03:15 PM
I don't really want to take the wheel off because I don't know how hard it is to align it correctly afterwards.

-plusnone
[snapback]244012[/snapback]
to keep alignment of the wheel.

before you remove it, take a felt pen, magic marker or even a knife

and

mark a slice from the outer housing to the center spindle.

easy, if you ever have/want to remove the wheel

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#6 (permalink) Old 12-05-2004, 04:14 PM
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Ah, that's a good idea. Thanks for that tip, I'm sure it'll come in handy soon.

-plusnone

My 1987 325 is no longer. Rain and an relatively inexperienced driver are not a good combination, to say the least. Luckily no one was seriously injured.
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#7 (permalink) Old 12-06-2004, 08:34 PM
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tech not working is most likely a fuse.

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#8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2004, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by spiff325is@Dec 6 2004, 08:34 PM
tech not working is most likely a fuse.
[snapback]244843[/snapback]
i agree to a fuse ONLY on one thing thats clear its not a fuse

in the first thread it states th etach does work for a second or two, up to 1000 rpm then off.

by deduction it cannot be a fuse, ( i do agree to replace them anyways) and if so.

would also mean that something "BLEW" THE FUSE in the 1st place.

trace your footsteps back to the work you did on the starter and with a high powered flashlight search for a broken wire or maybe you crimped the wire somewheres under the car ,
maybe the wire is too close to the exhaust or anything,.

the relative chance that you caused this is very high.
due to the fact of the problem starting right after the repair.

good luck and take some pics.

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#9 (permalink) Old 12-06-2004, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by idanity@Dec 6 2004, 09:09 PM
i agree to a fuse ONLY on one thing thats clear its not a fuse

in the first thread it states th etach does work for a second or two, up to 1000 rpm then off.

by deduction it cannot be a fuse, ( i do agree to replace them anyways) and if so.

would also mean that something "BLEW" THE FUSE in the 1st place.

trace your footsteps back to the work you did on the starter and with a high powered flashlight search for a broken wire or maybe you crimped the wire somewheres under the car ,
maybe the wire is too close to the exhaust or anything,.

the relative chance that you caused this is very high.
due to the fact of the problem starting right after the repair.

good luck and take some pics.
[snapback]244926[/snapback]
I guess I was a bit vague in my first post. I purchased the car in September, and the tach didn't work then. The only time it has worked was for a short time (first ride, about 1/2 an hour) after I got a new starter installed (which I didn't do myself, unfortuately). I didn't get a chance to work on it last weekend, but hopefully this weekend I will. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks

My 1987 325 is no longer. Rain and an relatively inexperienced driver are not a good combination, to say the least. Luckily no one was seriously injured.
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