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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 11-02-2005, 11:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rust Removal Advice Needed!!!

So, I just recently purchased myself a 325es this last week, and I found myself in a complete obsession starting as early as the drive home. This e30 is a huge upgrade from that wretched 94' Ford Aerostar.

Anyways, getting to the point, my car isn't exactly rust free. There are a few small blotches of rust from paint chips on the front hood, a small patch in the back near the license plate light, and a bubble or two on the southern-most sides of the car. I want to be able to kill of these rust spots and prevent them from spreading even more over the course of this fall/winter.

Any suggestions as to what I could use to get rid of this rust problem effectively and the methods in which I would use it, whatever the solution may be?

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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use meriodic acide

just kidding... it will remove it from the spot for the day, but everything will rust after that and everything arround where you used it.

sand it, and then use somthing like pore 15 to seal of the bare spots until you can get it painted.
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Old 11-08-2005, 08:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Lightbulb followup

Ha, funny thing happened! My exhaust disconnected between the beginning of the muffler's pipe and an intermediary pipe. Pretty sweet sound, I felt like I had upgraded my car's exhaust to one of those "DEEP GROWL :{" exhaust systems as I did in some of my sleep terrors.

It's cool though now, Marty fixed the exhaust fairly well, he cut it and patched it with this steel tube, so now my car sounds like an airplane like it should sound - AKA quiet.

A new ANSA system from bavauto.com would coast me around $450 to install, seeing how I need to buy my own tools for my father never really was into taking care of his car. It's cool though, his cars are built Ford tough. That's much on my do-it-yourself income.

So, I was thinking about taking some Dynashield to the exhaust after some intense sanding, then coating that with some Rust-o-leum, pore-15, what have you. Any paint that can survive at extreme temperature. All and all, I'd have it all fixed under $25-30.

Anyone protest?
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it would still be able to rust from the inside out, but if i were going to do that i would paint it with "header paint" i did it to the outside of my exhaust just for kicks, and who knows could add a year of life to the exhaust...

anyways what you could do if you know a welder is pull out your exhaust, go to a metal fab shop, but a long length of 2.5 inch tube, and get them to bend it like your current exhaust. i did that with the 56 belair i restored. full mendral bend dual 3 inch exhaust comming out the rear of the car for about $90 canadian. plus the cost of 2 flow-master 40 serries
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ive got a lil rust spots, what can i do to stop the rust from spreading this winter? so that i may get it painted in the spring.
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if you have rust holes its just going to keep rusting, you will inevitably will have to get a new exhaust. what you can do is sand the rust as best you can, or grind it with a dremel or wire wheel or somthing, and fill it with somthing like J&B weld. that will tithe you over until summer i imagine.
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I read on the JB Weld FAQ that they don't recommend it for exhaust because of the high heat emitted by the gases. But i guess during the winter time it wouldn't be exactly as hot as it could be during the summer or spring.

Also, would turtle wax chrome polish and rust remove get rid of the rust developing underneath chips in the paint? Right now, they're small blemishes, but father time has a cruel hand.

Also, can anyone recommend me a jack that's very reliable, considering how I'd be under my car if it ever fell in accordance to my luck.

Thanks for the productive insight.
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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this is my first post here, hey everybody
anyways, to the point.
the first thing you've got do here is get a jack and some STANDS. do not ever ever ever under any condition work under a car not supported by jack stands, unless you want to die. they are cheep... you can get them for under $10 each, check out sears, walmart, auto parts store, or i got some good ones from target 'cuz i worked there at the time. as far as a jack goes, you can spend $100 or so on a nice alumnium one, but theres really no reason. you can get a cheepie for ~30 at just about anywhere that you can get the jack stands at. no, its not going to be the best or have the highest weight capacity, but most all floor jacks are 3000+ lb rated, which is more than you're ever going to need for a car. stay away from bottle jacks, they're great for keeping in your car/truck in case of an emergency, because they're small and can cary a lot of weigh, but they are a real pain to work with since they don't have wheels, and have a very small footprint.

ok, great, you've got yourself setup with a good jack and some stands. now, where do you pick the car up? well theres a good chance that the "jacking points" in the front, basicly the spot thats in the corner of the rocker panel and the back of the wheel well, have long since rusted out. that means you cant put any load there. i generaly will pickup the car under the rocker panel, asuming that theres enough of it there to suppor the weight of the car, and than put the jack stand under one of the suspension mouning points... thats just prefrence though, i'm sure others will have their oppinions, just use your better judgement. before you climb under the car, wiggle it around a bit with your hand to make sure that its supported well and isn't going to topple over ontop of you if you start pulling hard on a rusty bolt or something

ok, so finaly we get to the original question... rust repair. well i'm knee deep in restoring a 65 mustang, so i know a thing or two about rust repair. it is no fun. period. depending on the severity of the problem spot and the degree of "restoration" you plan to do, theres different options. you're going to want to aquire some tools, aproximatly in this order: an asortment of sand paper, wire brush for your drill, dremel tool, angle grinder. if your rust spots are just paint chips that have rusted, you can proly just sand away the rust with some sand paper, prime it, sand the primer, paint the primer, and be good. if they are more serious rust spots where the metal has started to pit, you will need to get a wire brush of some sort to clean the rust out of the pits... sand paper won't do it. they sell atachments for power drills that do a so-so job, you can get attachments for a dremel that will do a pretty good job, but take forever, or you can splurge and get yoruself an angle grinder with a wire wheel that will do an amazing job. something you have to keep in mind, if you do not get every tiny little microscopic spec of rust off of the surface of the meal, and get it down to bare, shiney, clean metal the rust WILL come back. you have to get the meal shiny, if it turns a dark black/gunmetal color the rust is NOT gone yet. another thing, if you are using some sort of power grinder/wire wheel on metal, the metal will get hot. this is bad, since the metal will expand and warp perminantly. it is VERY hard to fix... ask me how i know. thats pretty hard to do with anything but the angle grinder, however. just be carefull you do not sit in one spot for a long time grinding away at the rust. take frequent breaks to let the metal cool and you will be ok.

if the metal is severly pitted, which theres a good chance it is if you're talking about door or trunk, etc, rust, than you can get some spot putty to fill in the pits. you can use bondo as well (or one of the knock off's) but it is more difficult to work with, imo, for such a small job. again, someone else's oppinion might differ here... this is just my experience. once you get everything cleaned up, filled in, and sanded down smooth you can paint it with that spray can touch up paint avalible at the auto parts store. the color usualy matches very well, but you will get pretty bad orange peal out of a spray can, and theres not much you can do about that other than sand it out. either way, it looks better than rust.

as far as your exaust system... i woudln't worry too much about it. there is not that much that can stand up to the temperatures of an exaust system, even header paint (similar to bbq paint...) will burn off. most exaust systems are alumnised, which prevents them from rusting pretty well. any exaust shop should be able to built you a new cat-back exaust system for well under $200. its not going to be a race ready performance exaust, but it will get the job done just fine and will be WAY less money.

well i hope i've been able to help some people out here... good luck w/ your car.

- Jason
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Old 11-12-2005, 05:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well, I guess here comes the time where I put the petal to the metal - so to speak - for those pesky rust problems. I'm going to start sanding down the rust so it's out of sight tonight if this girl doesn't call me, or if I don't build up the courage to call this other girl. That problem is beyond this forum to help me fix, I'm sure.

When I'm done for the night I'll post up the before and after snap shots so everyone can get a true feel for what exactly I'm getting myself into. As the muslims say, bismilahirramanarhim. I'm sure I spelled it wrong, but I think I got the sounds down.


Ohh, and what the hell is up with this???? ???????
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