Rough idle.... (help, please! - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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#1 (permalink) Old 04-11-2004, 11:59 AM
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My Engine idle pretty roughly, especially when started from cold but it continues through out the day. It also makes a clicking noise, which I beleive is just the valves that need to be adjusted. Am I correct? Any idea on the idle? its like a chug almost. The BMW dealer wants 120 to do the valves, but 400 to fix the idle along with 700 to do the timing belt.... grrr ghead . I can barely afford this thing.
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-11-2004, 01:10 PM
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I think it could be the Idle air stabilizer valve... any idea on where this is?
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-11-2004, 01:10 PM
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The timing belt is a weekend job and can be done yourself for under $100. I'd go ahead and pay for the valves, you can really screw yourself over trying to do it yourself, and $120 isn't too awful.

If he wants $400 to 'fix the idle' I'd at least have him explain the problem to you so you could debate tackling it yourself. You may just need a new O2 sensor or ICV.


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#4 (permalink) Old 04-11-2004, 06:14 PM
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ICV?
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-14-2004, 11:58 PM
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Mine is a '87 325is, idle is a bit rough, and it does not changes when the engine warms up. But the engine revs up sweeeeeet, is as if it is all it realy wants is to run fas all the way, but the idle beats me.
I purchased it less than two months ago from a lady whos son had just replaced the radiator and hoses, the ac compresor and hoses, all brake calipers pads nad hoses, 4 new tires and he had some work done to the head. They did spend over $3000 on it and I paythem $1600 for it, but I cant get a hold on the kid to find out what exactly he did to the engine. I just now tha it has a lot of power; I can make it chip the tires when gearing to 3rd at almost 100 kph.
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-15-2004, 01:34 AM
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icv

also mebbe cheq ur sparkies


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#7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2004, 11:26 AM
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yeah, spark plugs could cause that, i know the last time i changed my plugs they were gapped wrong (usually doesnt happen, they are pretty good about being gapped out of the box) and it caused my idle to suck and it ran like crap until i gapped them correctly.

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#8 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 05:20 PM
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My 80 323is also has an idling problem. The motor idles up and down. Also when i take off in 1st gear , it feels like the motors about to die. ANY TIPS???
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 06:31 PM
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If the motor actually sounds like it's going to die, not just that it dips really low, then try slipping the clutch a bit more and revving a little higher when you take off. That'll keep it from stalling - you may just have a bad throttle cable or something, I think that's what's causing some troubles with my car.

I really don't know if a lot of other BMWs do this, but most of the people I've talked to around here with Etas have slightly bouncy idles. I think it may just be the nature of the interference engine. Unless it's shooting up or down 500rpm, I don't think it's anything to worry about. If it's getting on your nerves, and you haven't done so already, try replacing the ICV and/or spark plugs, wires, injectors etc. Even if that's not causing the problem, it won't hurt anything.

It's also a twenty-four-year-old car.
That right there can explain a lot.


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#10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 04:29 PM
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um, mine is only 14, with 90 k on it I dont think age is a problem here. Let me correct myself on this: the car more or less idles at about 700 RPM... it doesnt move. the engine actually vibrates. it "chugs" as does the entire exhast system. Its an automatic and I have an 325i, so, its not the ETA engine u were talking about.
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#11 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 07:20 PM
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I referred to 1980 BMW 323is's predicament.
I gave my inupt to your situation in my first post to this thread, and I haven't thought or read of anything that I can add since.


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#12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 09:37 PM
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yeah, ^ good stuff

we replaced our ICV (idle control valve) idle would jump to about 3000rpm upon start, i'll see if i can find soem pics of it, its really easy to replace just in and out, about $100 think
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#13 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 01:37 PM
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I know its been awhile, but I took my ICV off and cleaned it and applied voltage to it, and it opens and closes perfectly... any other ideas?
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#14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 02:36 PM
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cheack you Throtle position sensor (TPS).
If you say your idle goes to 3000 rpm, it could be the problem.
To test it real quick:

Stop the engine,
Open the throle by hand about 20 degre.
close it realy slowly. I should say let it close by itself slowly.
Listen for a "click" when it is almost closed.
You should hear it. If not, try to force it closed by hand .

This click tells your computer to go in "idle control mode"

If you dont hear it or have to force it, your TPS need an ajustment/replacment.
could be that your throtle cable is ajusted to short to.

try it, it only takes a minute.
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#15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 05:32 PM
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My car jumps to about 1400 RPM upon start up. And the throttle clicks.
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