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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 09-19-2004, 10:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Where could i find a roll bar for an E30? i remember a site for them, but i forgot, i used to have them in my favorites, buti lost it. any info would help, thanks.
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you dont buy a roll cage for a car. You fabricate them. You buy roll bar for a truck.
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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correct BUT they sell prefab bolt in cages...i cant seem to find any for an E30 now either but i have seen them in the past...im just making a cust fab one its not that hard if you have access to a high speed grinder welder and madrel tube bender....
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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www.vsr1.com

they have a bolt in cage. It won't do as good of a job at stiffening the body, but it could save your neck. Unless you do the fab work yourself on a custom cage it will cost a lot more than a bolt in.
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxbrain@Sep 20 2004, 12:57 AM
www.vsr1.com

they have a bolt in cage. It won't do as good of a job at stiffening the body, but it could save your neck. Unless you do the fab work yourself on a custom cage it will cost a lot more than a bolt in.
awesome...but what if you bought that kit and once bolted in just weld it? just a thought...
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you dont need a mandrel bender really. Its a shitload more expensive and is kinda just for looks. True mandrel bends ARE stronger... but eh. And bolt ins, the bolts frequently, (if you do roll which none of you ever will unless your into autorally as well.) the bolts will rip out of the chasis. Sheetmetal is crap. Properly needs to be welded to the frame. I dont see what your idea is with the roll cage anyway. They are a waste, your never going to flip your car if your going on asphault. 5 point harnesses are also a waste. Its all just an expensive way to rice out your car.


Excuse me if I jumped from topic to topic and have bad idea structure im tirred.
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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lol its cool but i know people who have died rcing canyons so i suggest them...its kind of a no brainer around here if you wanna built canyon car...you get a roll cage...
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i wouldnt catagorize cayonballing under "Normal Asphault Conditions"

Besides most people dont have those. Us unlucky bastards.
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Old 09-20-2004, 01:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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haha here in CA we are surrounded by mountains and canyons :P yesh we are lucky bashtards
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Old 09-20-2004, 02:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Welding a bolt-in cage won't do you much good because it still attaches at the same points and might be worse since you might not get as good hold with a weld as bolts.

The bolt in won't be as strong or safe as a welded cage, but it's a lot cheaper and a lot safer than nothing at all. If you're doing serious stuff where you are worried about flipping your car I'd say spend the cash and get a custom job. Cutting costs is great in everything except saftey. I'd rather be saying, "I'm an idiot" than my epitath reading "He was an idiot, now he's a head shorter"

Just remember though, it's about 50-70 lbs placed high up in the car and it means nobody is gonna fit in the backseat.


EDIT: oh, and read up on auto-x rules before you get a custom job done just incase you ever want to race closed track you want to be up to spec.
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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damn, someone beat me to the website already......
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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weld in cage is better than bolt in....true....but bolt in is better than no cage....especially you were ever to roll down a crazy mountain side

personally tho, i would find someone to make a custom one cause it would just be worth the extra money
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