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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 02-10-2009, 11:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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rear wheel bearing

OK, I see that this topic has really been explored on this forum but I need some help here. I am getting some awful noise coming from the right rear wheel. Lots of vibration as well. Sounds like there's no bearing in there at all. I am new to BMW's so I want an opinion before I start to tearing this thing apart. First of all there isn't any noticeable wobble on the wheel at all with the car up in the air. So, I am unsure about the wheel bearing. Is it possible that its the diff or a cv? Both outer cv's boots are leaking a little too, but not bad. The sound gets louder the faster you go but levels out some and gets smoother on the interstate.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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A worn wheel bearing or wheel bearing hub has a specific symptom. A loud humming noise. When this loud humming noise begins to come from the front or rear wheel area, wheel bearing repair is inevitable.

Loud wheel bearing noise can be tested as follows:
As you drive at a slower speed (25-35 mph) you'll hear a deep humming or howling noise. As you increase your speed (55-65 mph) the noise will change to a high pitch whining. This change in pitch indicates that you have a bad wheel bearing.

How to figure out which wheel bearing is making noise can be tested as follows:
After achieving a speed where the howling noise increases, load either the drivers or passengers side of the vehicle. Load? For instance, when turning around a right hand corner your loading the vehicle weight onto that side. Listen for the wheel bearing noise to increase and try to determine if it is coming from the front or rear wheel bearing. You can also try swerving from left to right in a safe area and under safe conditions.


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Old 02-11-2009, 11:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just bought the car and the guy said he has been driving it like that for 6 months. It sounds like there is not a bearing even in there. Lots of vibration too. Not really a humming sound more like a handful of rocks are in the place of the ball bearings...LOL

What would the symptoms be of a diff bearing or a cv??? Sounds???

Thanks in advance for the help.....
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What is the socket size on that axle nut on a '88 325e?

30mm? 32mm? ?????
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325guy View Post
What is the socket size on that axle nut on a '88 325e?

30mm? 32mm? ?????



E30 rear wheel bearing replacement

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Old 02-12-2009, 09:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would just take it to a shop and have them do it.....the bearings are like $40 each but the driveaxle nuts are torqued to around 150 ft/lbs. That is intense, you need a breaker bar around 4 feet long to bust those loose. Plus the re-installation. I have done many things on cars over the years and have learned that some things are best left to a shop. good luck
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It looks pretty easy to do. I have suspension experience on other cars, I just didnt know what size the axle nut was. I need to buy that socket.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How old are the tires check the DOT number on them to see when the were made, you may have a torn belt, is the wheel bent, switch the tires around to see if the noise moved, is the tire size the same on both sides of the car?
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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go measure the thing...how hard is that? take a ruler out and measure the nut.....if you have to know that before you purchase the tool I don't think you will be able to accomplish the task.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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looks pretty easy to do....famous last words before the tow truck comes...
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OK, its a 30mm nut. It is kind of hard to measure up in there, I just though some one might know so I didnt have to do it.

I just got everything apart but that bearing doesnt want to budge. I rented an impact puller with no luck and I tried beating it out. So whats next??? Heat???

In the mean time while I am waiting to figure that out, I installed my lowering springs and got the axles out and took apart for rebuild and new boots.

Any help on the bearing removal would be great......I guess I could always call for that tow truck!!!
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:05 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just soak it in WD40 or a similar release agent and keep giving it a bang it will move eventually.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversled View Post
I would just take it to a shop and have them do it.....the bearings are like $40 each but the driveaxle nuts are torqued to around 150 ft/lbs. That is intense, you need a breaker bar around 4 feet long to bust those loose. Plus the re-installation. I have done many things on cars over the years and have learned that some things are best left to a shop. good luck
No offence silversled, but 150lb-ft torque on a wrench isn't nearly as much as I think you think it is. If you're using a 4 foot snipe to get to 150, either you're torque wrench is WAY off, or you're significantly over-torquing it and risking some very serious damage.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm just saying that to break 150 ft/lbs is going to require alot more than your standard ratchet wrench can handle. 150 ft/lbs is alot of wrenching....maybe not 4 foot breaker bar, but 2 to 3 feet for sure. If if you don't believe go try it....I think you'll see what I mean here...best of luck in any case. A torque wrench to break it loose...I think not.....
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I broke both nuts with a 1/2" torque wrench thats about 18" maybe.
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