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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 11-21-2004, 09:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My problem is simple...

When the rear defrost switch is turned on, only two-three copper lines actually work on the window. Anyone with similar problem? maybe a solution?

Thanks
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Old 11-23-2004, 03:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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only real answer is a new window you can buy stuff that piant over the breaks in the lines but it's not great
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Old 11-23-2004, 03:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yea i got the same problem....anyone with an answer?


Really i would need a whole new rear window?


damit.

only 1 of mine work.
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Old 11-23-2004, 07:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you guys tried asking your question on other forums?
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Old 11-23-2004, 07:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Numark318i@Nov 23 2004, 03:57 PM
yea i got the same problem....anyone with an answer?


Really i would need a whole new rear window?


damit.

only 1 of mine work.
[snapback]236156[/snapback]

have you brought out the ole faithful OHM-METER and checked continuity ?

also the ole 9 dollar cheapy ohm meter would isolate the broken spot very accurately and without having to tear apart all of your car... jsut the possessed parts...

and even further if it is on the window (and you dont mind a little more visible wire) it is possible tto jump the broken parts to the good parts ...

and pushing the envelope to a new hieght would be to buy a 10 dollar electrical de-fogger for the windsheild and rig it to the back. you can cut off the cig. lighter connector and wire it to a direct llink providing you add the 99cent 5 amp fuse...

really easy with the right tools ...

and speaking of the tools if you dont have a OHM-METER yet than i strongly suggest the kind with the needle .. NOT digital...because one reason..

itll vork without batteries on voltage and can test batteries
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Old 11-23-2004, 07:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Numark318i@Nov 23 2004, 03:57 PM
yea i got the same problem....anyone with an answer?


Really i would need a whole new rear window?


damit.

only 1 of mine work.
[snapback]236156[/snapback]
i have one that works..........$$$$
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Old 11-23-2004, 09:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedy-325is+Nov 23 2004, 07:32 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Speedy-325is @ Nov 23 2004, 07:32 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Numark318i@Nov 23 2004, 03:57 PM
yea i got the same problem....anyone with an answer?


Really i would need a whole new rear window?


damit.

only 1 of mine work.
[snapback]236156[/snapback]
i have one that works..........$$$$
[snapback]236290[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]


well the GOOD NEWS = one wire works...

so you have "continuity " to the window and the fuse is okay..

now is it the top or bottom wire, from there look closely for any cuts or damage and if your really good melt down a gold earing and make a jumper wire across it.

or roll down your windows...

also buy a OHM=METER and fallow the currents until they fail and make sure you check both sides as its a D.C. voltage thing...

dont forget to celebrate the working of the one...poor little wire all by itself with a whole window to defrost...must be a fighter B)
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That's better then mine... it doesn't work at all... I have to crnaks the heat... when it works to get the top to defrost. I've tried everything. I think it's in the wiring...

P.
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by All wheels rolling@Nov 27 2004, 01:15 PM
That's better then mine... it doesn't work at all... I have to crnaks the heat... when it works to get the top to defrost. I've tried everything. I think it's in the wiring...

P.
[snapback]238395[/snapback]
Have you tried replacing the switch?
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