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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 06-10-2004, 08:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I tried searching through old posts, I don't have an owner's manual, and the Haynes Manual doesn't have this info. I would really like a breakdown of the fusebox in an 86 325es. I have the clear cover on top, and it doesn't have any indication of what fuse goes to what circuit, and being an electrician, I would really appreciate this information. My passenger window will not go down. I already tried switching the up/down switches, and they both work. Before I go and rip the door open, I'd like to rule out the possibility of a $.50 fuse. Also, my driver's side window doesn't go down all the way. It gets about 95% of the way down, then does this nasty ratcheting noise, and refuses to go down any farther. I know that I'm going to have to open the door up for that one, but any suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks!

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Old 06-11-2004, 12:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks like you will have to open up the door to see what is going on. A blown fuse would not make you window go down most of the way, with a blow fuse you wouldn't get any movement. The door panel is easy to remove, just go for it. You may find your window motor bolts are loose or something.
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Old 06-11-2004, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Its Probably the motor for the passenger side i just changed mine as well
i dont know if Bmw sells just the motor but i had a spare one and i put it in their are two screws holding the motor i think its a star shaped bit.
for the window not going in all the way its because the housing that the motor goes into might need adjustment it has a screw on it thart allows you to adjust the track for the window the only way i found out all this stuff because i used my brothers partsd off his car he totalled it ghead
before i did that their was no other way for me to change it properly. good luck

oh and when u take or put on the panels be careful not to break any of the plastic clips because the panel will be loose if u dont replace them
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Old 06-12-2004, 08:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help, guys. It's appreciated.

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Old 06-12-2004, 11:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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haha, I'm -not- an electrician, and I have the same problem. I used to have no switch for the window and had hoped that was just it, but after installing one I've found out its not the case. Its one of the illuminated switches, and its getting power to light up so I mean I'm sure its not the fuse. However when I opened the passenger door to try and fix the interior door handle I noticed that it looked like alot of the wiring was fucked up on the motor, however not having the parts or the motovation to try and fix it I said fuck it at the time and went on with my life. LoL. Oh well, anyhow, my problem now is that the locks won't stay down. I pushed my drivers lock down, and it'll stay down for a second, and then it pops back up. If I hold it down, sometimes it stays, but more often than not it just keeps popping back up. :-/ Shitty.
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Old 06-14-2004, 03:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ldsbeaker, you might want to check out the central locking relay and then check out all of your lock actuators. If you lock the doors and they unlock again almost immediately it is because there is a problem. A motor is dead or something is jammed. The central locking is telling you that everything is not locking properly. Find out if all motors work, make sure there are no bent rods or things jamming the mechanism.
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Old 06-14-2004, 10:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a 1987 2 door 325is... one window works and the other does not. I can switch the window switches and found I had a bad switch... see repair procedure on another post at this site.

The wiring can be checked very easily.. follow these steps
1) on the window that works, pull out the window switch and snap open the back of the plug and expose the wires.
2) with the ignition in the on position, take a volt meter and test volt of each wire (5 in total). The only wire that should have voltage is the grn/gry wire. You should find this to be true.

3) Now for the window that does not work.
4) do the same and see if you have voltage only at the grn/gry wire. If yes then it's the switch or the motor. If not, then fuse or wire problem.
5) switch the switches and see if the window works with the switch that works. If not the problem is in the motor. IF it works, then repair the switch... see article at www.bmwe30.net... see below for where to look on the site.

I don't think anyone ever told you about the fuse definition at www.bmwe30.net.
See articles & tips > then Electrical > then "fuse..." article.

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