3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
I used to have a ' 89 325i auto, but i sold it off last year to buy a better looking and slightly faster '87 325e manual. I have been driving around in the 325e for about a year now and a nice 325i engine has been more or less given to me. I have decided to take out the eta and put in the 'i' engine.
I want to make sure I have all my parts before I start. The things that I have or will be getting shortly are:
Looks like I will not be putting the i engine in afterall . . .
I used to have a full, used, 325i exhaust with a nice little ansa free flow but it was accidentally taken to the scrap yard about 4 months ago as scrap metal (there was a huge pile behind my parent's garage and the exhaust was sitting near it and someone got scrap-happy) I don't feel like getting a whole new exhaust so I bought another rnning eta motor and the head from a 325i (the salavage yard didn't if it was good but I know it was good because I was the last person to have that engine running. The car used to belong to a buddy who dismantled the suspension but left the motor intact before junking the whole thing. (Horrible rust and holes throughout the body, looked awful)
Total cost for a complete and running eta plus a good 325i head: $200 cash, removed from the car and delivered to my door. Hehe, It pays to make friends with guy who owns the salvage yard.
Now I am going to do a rebuild on the new eta, install the 'i' springs and the 'i'camshaft, paint the intake and the valve cover real pretty-like, and install the lot. When I am done I will have an e30 with a 325 body and interior, a differential from an e28 535i, a motor, front valene, and decklid spoiler from a 325es, and vavle-springs and camshaft from a 325i.
What I want to know now is what hell I am supposed to put on the trunk . . . 5325esi, might look a bit silly . . .
The e and i trannys are the same thing. Since your going from an e to an i, you wont have to worry about the crank position sensor, because after sometime in 1987 it moved to the front crank pulley from the tranny, you may have 2 now...
And if I were you, i would go for the stroker...
__________________ 86 Alpine White 335is M30 Swap <br>My Car Domain ASE L1 Smog Certified
how bout no badges on the back? the 3 denotes the chassis is a 3 series and the next number usually denotes displacement in liters except in a few cases such as the 325e which is a 2.7L
i say you would be better off swappin in the i motor for power the e is a lost cause unless you update the piston rings, connecting rods and install/port match the i intake manifold and injectors and fuel system, then you would be cookin with gas
the factory connecting rods, valve springs, and piston rings are the reason the car has a 4600rpm factory redline, they are too weak to handle much more than that....keep that in mind
__________________ Kyle Sutherland
1995 BMW 540i/6: The Calypso Beast Vid 0-70ish 1987 BMW 325es: Face & Butt Lifted/M50tu Swapped*Sold* 1985 VW Scirocco: Too many mods, money pit*Sold* E34 Plate Filler Wanted!
Just to let you know the shape of the top of the pistons is diferent as well the shape of the head the eta has a flat top and the "I" have a wedge to increase compresion so you would be droping your compresion and plus the eta had poor coolant cirulation in the head and the tilt of the engined made the back holes in 5 and 6 clog up if never flushed the piston ring would over heat and wear then you would have low compresion in 5 and 6 so mixed with the I head and the blow by the rear rings your engine going to be a huge kick in the balls never sell your self short save up and do it right plus make shore you do your homework on the gears in the trans and diff you pick depending on your over drive percentage you may not want a realy ballsy diff
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