3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
ok so im about to buy a 30 dollar used idle control module. i pulled the one out of my 325e and it was fried, circuit board and capacitors transistors were burnt. (read previous posted threads about how)
so if the idle is "surging right now, from 750 to 1200 or 1300 RPM
and i have pulled the control module, should i be worried about having to replace the ICV as well? im hoping once i get the part that all is cured.
also on the direction of when i replace the unit. should i pull the throttle switch, tune the screw on the ICV and set it to 750 RPM and then reapply the throttle switch??? or should i just keep everything connected.
one last question to pose, the car is never on long enough to get to normal temperature. but i assume the temperature gauge may not be reading correct it stays at top of blue, does the IDLE control module have anything to do with sending data back to the temperature gauge? so that if it is not working nor is the gauge gonna read right? i read that it does take data from the temperature sensor the AFM and all sorts of other sensors.
forgot to mention that car does start and runs and even drives good. just have not been using it for the last 2-3 weeks since this happened. just idle is not right so its no fun trying to drive around, especially around here with stop and go traffic. imagine sitting there at a red light and your car is surging back and forth. <<makes you look like your an idiot or your car is messed up or worse you're revving your car to race>>ok not really just had to throw that bit in there. hahah
RE: ICV - check to see if it is working properly. clean thoroughly with brake or carb cleaner. Apply voltage to the prongs:
1) with voltage the valve should close all the way, and
2) without voltage, the valve should be fully open.
Replace ICV if it doesn't operate as above.
I do not think your throttle switch is at fault at this time. But if you need to check on it's operation, the Pelican tech pages has an excelent step-by-step procedure on how to do this. It does however, require you to take down the throttle body-extra work for you...
to set your idle stop screw... disconnect ICV and throttle switch. Use screw to achieve your 750RPM. Reconnect ICV and throttle switch... you're done!
temperature guage sending unit is the blue sensor that you see on your thermostat head. I would look there to start with.
1)Try and disconnect at the connector - your guage should read zero.
2) u can take it out and check its operation by immersing the sensor head in hot water and see if the temp guage rises accordingly.
3) Check also the integrity of your wiring- jump the 2 wires at the connector with a paper clip-with ignition in ON, your temp guage should swing to the red zone :-)
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