no heat 1991 BMW 318i - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 09:07 AM
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I have recently purchased a 1991 BMW 318i and there's no heat in the car. I mean I do get some heat when I put the recycle button on, but it's somewhat weak. But when i take the recycle button of I start getting cold air again. I do ocassaionally get very little heat from the car but not enough to do anything. Here in canada it's just a little important.. lol....What do you guys recommend? I mean when i looked at the car. I was squeezing the hoses, and the hose that goes to the heater core.. it appears that there's no pressure. But anyhow i'm not mechnically inclined and I'm opened to suggestions. If I put "recycle" on and there's heat does that mean that there's nothing wrong with my heater core? Would you recommend me to try flushing the coolant system first?
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 10:08 AM
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KC Ron Carter is an unknown quantity at this point
You may need to take it to a mechanic.

BMW did modifications to keep the hot water contained in case of a hose break.

If it is now malfunctioning, only its removal will fix it.

Later,
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 10:18 AM
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The previous owner (my friend) has gotten all of the recalls done already. i'm not sure what you mean by containing the water in case of a hose break. Because I used to own a 1984 325E and even this 91. If a hose ever burst, then you'll get coolant leaking out. I do apologize for not being mechnacially inclined. So you wouldn't even recommend a cooling system flush? If I were to proceed, is there a drain screw that i can take out to release the coolant? Or should I just remove the upperrad and a few other hoses to let the coolant out?

Thanks in advance.

But if when put it on recycle, I do get some heat does that mean that the heater core is functional? Or am i only getting heat because it's circulating the air within?
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#4 (permalink) Old 02-22-2004, 10:53 PM
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what is your temo showing? to drain your fluid i belive that you disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator.

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#5 (permalink) Old 02-23-2004, 08:35 AM
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I had a piece of cardboard infront of my rad to help my car warm up faster. Lately it's getting warm so I removed the cardboard. But even after I remove it my temp gage shoots really high even when I'm driving locally. If it's stop and go traffic, my temp gauge nearly hits red sometimes. So I'm going to see that now that I have removed the cardboard if it will do any better. I was a little low on coolant so I topped it back up. I'm getting some heat back now but really low. There seems to heat comign out as I'm driving. But when I'm stopped at a red, I feel the heat temperature drop.

Well if anything I'm going to go ahead and try to do a flush, and refill it with new collant. I did find out that there's a drain screw underneath the rad. Thanks for the help guys, this forum is awesome.
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-24-2004, 02:11 AM
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It sounds like there might be an airlock in the system... I am having a couple of issues with my 316 (after replaceing thermostat, temp goes upto 3/4 and stays there, air but little heat out of face fan but defrosters and feet are fine) and am looking into this myself.

Info at BEN
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/data...0037&Section=09

Gone but not forgotten: '87 UK 318... Carb madness!
Currently: '90 UK 525i completely stock

"Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company."
-Mark Twain
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-24-2004, 05:40 AM
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could be alot of things, If my temp gauge is getting close to redville, I'm going straight to my mechanic Eta heads warp and "I" heads crack from extreme tempature. screw your heat, make sure your engine isn't going to die.

EDIT: now I see you have a 318... my advice is the same

PS there is a red 91 318is in the salvage yard near my work tell me if you need anything, they sell cheap.
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#8 (permalink) Old 02-24-2004, 10:43 AM
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Thanks for all of your input guys. Here's what I have also noticed. After I have removed the cardboard from the rad I started driving, I can still rahter heats up fast, but not as bad as previously. Right now it goes a bit past the middle mark. Which isn't too bad right? When I have stopped driving I popped open my hood. And I felt the Rad. For some strange reason the RAD feels cool. Isn't the Rad suppose to be warm? Because it's used for cooling? I topped up the coolant a little bit more. And now as i'm driving I'm getting heat. But however when I'm stopped, the heat seems to just ease out and the air gets cold. But when I start picking up again. The heat will than becoming warming from the vent? Any idea guys? Thanks in advance.
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2004, 07:52 PM
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The thermostat may be sticking closed, or partially, which would let the engine get too hot. That would prevent the hot coolant from getting to the radiator as well.
There could also be an air pocket in the system, or you haven't bled it properly.

I'm trying to visualize your car, but I'm not sure..........there should be a bleeder screw somewhere. Is your expansion tank part of the radiator? If so, the screw is next to the cap. Open the bleeder, and fill the system, with engine off, until coolant flows out of the bleeder. Tighten it up, and then run the car at about 1500 rpms with the heater on full temp. That should get the air out of the system.
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#10 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 10:58 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys. But I decided to top up my coolant even more so I went all the way. Now everyhting seems to be working fine.
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