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|3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.|
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I have just purchased my first BMW, its a 1990 325I.
I paid $1,000.00 for the car, it has 3,000 miles on a rebuilt engine, a new transmission ( Automatic), near new tires, and new breaks......
The trouble I am having, is this.
The check engine light is on, the brake lining light is on, the speedometer and odometer are not working.....
The car runs fantastic even with these things wrong.....
I have another odometer from a salvaged 90 BMW 325I, I would like to know how to remove the instrument panel from the car, so I can replace it.
Where the brake lining sensor is located and what I can try or do to fix it.
I also bought a Peake research engine code reader, for the 1990 325I. I get no readout on it, I know their is a battery in the instrument panel, but don't know if this supplies the power for the diagnostic connector on the engine.....
any one have any ideas what could be wrong with this car?.....
first, lets start with the brakes. Look to see if the brake lining sensor is even in existence, coz if it is not, then the person who did the brakes on it is stupid and probly ripped the sensor off the end of the wire that goes to it. The brake lining sensor is located on ONE of the brake pads per side. The brake pads have a little hole bored into the side very close to the metal backing of the pad. The sensor has a pin end that goes into this hole, and senses for the ferrous material that the rotor is made of through thin layers of friction lining.
Now lets talk about your diag connector. That battery does NOT supply power for the diag connector. It has a 12 volt lead. Pin 14 is Batt + and should have a 12 volt signal. If it does not, check fuses. If you find a blown fuse, REPLACE it. If not, then look to see if theres any broken wires on the bottom of the connector. Pin 14 has a red wire going to it. If theres power on pin 14, switch your tester to ohms and check pin 19 by putting the red lead for your tester into pin 19, and black onto a ground anywhere on the car-anything that has bear metal. Ill upload a pic of the connector view here in a minute, but first lets talk about the 3rd thing you need help with-the instrument panel.
First, take off the bezel underneath the instrument cluster, it has 2 thumbnuts that hold it on, 1 on each side. Second, theres another bezel that surrounds the instrument cluster, theres 4 screws that hold it on. Take a small phillips and remove the screws in the surrounding bezel. Then remove the surrounding bezel. 3. remove either 2 or 4 bolts from the instrument cluster-(I cant remember how many are in it) and then the fun starts with the hardest part. 4. pull the cluster forward enough to reach behind it, because there are 4 connectors on the back of it. Remove all 4 of these connectors, and the cluster should come free. While you have it removed, REPLACE ALL BURNED OUT LIGHTBULBS! Reverse procedure to reinstall.
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