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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 07-02-2005, 01:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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offabroadway is an unknown quantity at this point
The 325e goes into Euro Specialty tomorrow to get a lot of work done, most of it past due. New alternator mounts, valve adjustment, new mast antenna, and a fix for my sunroof (which seems to be slipping more and more. Gearbox sounds fine, but it won't go anywhere).

Here's the thing. I'm coming into lots of cash, but I need to form a plan of action, what's more important to have done. The rearmost fuel pump is buzzing its ass off, and I've read the transfer pump is likely the cause. I'd like to quiet it down. Also, I nobody can give me straight goods on what is causing my slightly sporadic idle problems... whether it's the ICV, or the MAF. I don't want to replace both unless I have to, so how do you figure out which one is the issue?

I like to know what it is that's wrong with my car before I take it in so I know what to ask them to do. Any advice would be gravy. Thanks.
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Changed the car's name, now it's - Roxanne -1985 325e
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Old 07-02-2005, 08:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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bad man working is an unknown quantity at this point
I think you should get the fuel pump done first, as thatís a breakdown waiting to happen The only way to find out whatís is causing the idle fault is to fit parts. If you canít find someone with the same car to use as a donor then go for the idle valve first itís the most common. Be fore you buy this have the inlet air system checked for leaks, itís easy to test. With the engine at idle blank off the air inlet at the air flow meter and the engine should stop instantly if not itís got an air leak.
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