yeh I was gonna say AFM
hard to rebuild
most rebuilds suck
new ones expensive
Im told, if you can get the little arm to slide on a new surface out of the worn groove you can get clean readings again for another 10 years.
One guy did this by changing the center of rotation slightly so the arm sticks out a bit more, then the arch is only slightly wider but you get whole new surface to wear out. he had to remove the arm and cut or grind it out somehow.
I gave up and bought a new Bosch unit after returning two rebuild units.
If you take it out and hook it up to a meter you should be able to see the dead spot if there is one. You just have to take a bunch of readings (20 min) at small increments. If its that bad you might even be able to see it while in the car, just stick your finger in it,LOL, dont screw up the wind vane sensor ball thingy. Oh yeh check that out too it could be bent.
I think haynes has the reading min max. Dont be fooled by the WOT reading I think its very different than the closed position to close to WOT.
Oh ye the incriment are like really small like .001 ohms per degree of rotation
Dont break the seal and open the electronics unless you know its toast and want to try and rebuild it. a last resort only.
PS I just put in Castrol GTX 10W-40 in my new i motor yeasterday, nice, and Redline MTL in the gerbox today. so far so good.
Shifts a little smoother bu I still think my syncros are going.
and who knows where to get the rebuild kit for shift linkage?
Its either that or a whole SSK. runnin out a budget LOL
'87 325is Delphin Metalic