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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 08-30-2006, 12:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Loss of power

What would cause an eta to have NO power at 2000 rpms but run great anywhere else? Typically in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears.
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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dirty spark plugs?
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No the plugs are fairly new and good shape.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check your intake boot for tears. Also check for vac. leaks in general. How long has it been since you cap and rotor were checked? Sounds like it may be an secondary ignition issue.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the fact that its an Eta should be the answer
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Old 08-30-2006, 06:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I will check it out in a bit. What kind of bimmer do you have again kraut?
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dead spot in the AFM, could cause this. Is your car chipped?
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Old 08-31-2006, 01:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Its not my car, but his has a dinan chip.
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Old 08-31-2006, 03:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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yeh I was gonna say AFM
hard to rebuild
most rebuilds suck
new ones expensive

Im told, if you can get the little arm to slide on a new surface out of the worn groove you can get clean readings again for another 10 years.
One guy did this by changing the center of rotation slightly so the arm sticks out a bit more, then the arch is only slightly wider but you get whole new surface to wear out. he had to remove the arm and cut or grind it out somehow.

I gave up and bought a new Bosch unit after returning two rebuild units.

If you take it out and hook it up to a meter you should be able to see the dead spot if there is one. You just have to take a bunch of readings (20 min) at small increments. If its that bad you might even be able to see it while in the car, just stick your finger in it,LOL, dont screw up the wind vane sensor ball thingy. Oh yeh check that out too it could be bent.

I think haynes has the reading min max. Dont be fooled by the WOT reading I think its very different than the closed position to close to WOT.
Oh ye the incriment are like really small like .001 ohms per degree of rotation

Dont break the seal and open the electronics unless you know its toast and want to try and rebuild it. a last resort only.

Good luck.

PS I just put in Castrol GTX 10W-40 in my new i motor yeasterday, nice, and Redline MTL in the gerbox today. so far so good.
Shifts a little smoother bu I still think my syncros are going.
and who knows where to get the rebuild kit for shift linkage?
Its either that or a whole SSK. runnin out a budget LOL
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