3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
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I've noticed that in first and second, and a little bit in third when I give it some gas it kind of rumbles. I've read about other people with this problem around around the 180-230k mileage area, so I figure this is common. I was wondering if anyone had any input on what the most likely cause of this is. Also, I need a fairly detailed manual, dunno if I should get haynes or what. I need to fix my power steering, or more specifically a leaky hose and I figure it would be nice to have a repair manual.
Also, does anyone have any suggestions for things to look for that might need replacing. Its got 215K miles, but seems to run really well despite the rumble. As far as I can tell all it needs is a the power steering leak, the rumble, and perhaps a new alternator or battery. I seem to notice more dimming/wiper slowing than I expected when I have the lights and wipers on. Plus, I intend to do some minor upgrades to the stereo system.
As far as air conditioning is concerned...does anyone have any suggestions as to the best option for recharging? I've only had it a few days and haven't had much of a chance to look at it at all...took me like 5 hours to figure out why I couldn't roll my windows down. Finally figured out what that lil button next to my defroster was.
i remember mine shaking like that before. i took out the spark plugs, made sure the gaps where all set where they were supposed to be, and also took really fine sand paper and cleaned them off a little. i put the plugs back in and she sounded beautiful!
for other things, maybe do the timing belt. not a good thing if it breaks. change oil maybe unless you know when it was last done. i have a '87 325is and i use pennzoil 15-40 and it works great. and ummm...normal stuff you should do to any used car you buy.
"...took me like 5 hours to figure out why I couldn't roll my windows down. Finally figured out what that lil button next to my defroster was."
Originally posted by whitey_E30@Apr 27 2005, 06:16 AM WELCOME NOOB!
i remember mine shaking like that before. i took out the spark plugs, made sure the gaps where all set where they were supposed to be, and also took really fine sand paper and cleaned them off a little. i put the plugs back in and she sounded beautiful!
IF you do that, remember to clean them VERY carefully after that. Small bits of metal aren't that good for your engine :P
And do it only if their carbonized, otherwise - leave them alone
Originally posted by DLovett+Apr 26 2005, 10:41 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DLovett @ Apr 26 2005, 10:41 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-whitey_E30@Apr 27 2005, 06:16 AM WELCOME NOOB!
i remember mine shaking like that before.* i took out the spark plugs, made sure the gaps where all set where they were supposed to be, and also took really fine sand paper and cleaned them off a little.* i put the plugs back in and she sounded beautiful!
IF you do that, remember to clean them VERY carefully after that. Small bits of metal aren't that good for your engine :P
And do it only if their carbonized, otherwise - leave them alone
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shaking is something is unbalanced.
timing is off or something isnt sparking like it should
check/replace spark plugs and spark wires for tight connections to the distributor and the spark plugs, and check inside the distributor housing for burnt contact points.
haynes and chiltons are not the best manuals around but they get by for the most part. factory manuals are the best, most detailed ones you can get but will generally set you back a bit of money. worth it, IMO.
How old are your ignition components? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc? If they've got better than 5 years or 100,000kms on em, I'd replace the whole lot. That will help.
Timing belt, as stated above, is a biggie. These engines are interference designs, which means if the timing breaks, the valves are stuck out far enough to get the hell mashed out of them by the pistons. This basically requires an engine rebuild and new head to fix. Very costly. Also, I just did my timing belt and drive belts yesterday, and I can tell you that yes, it makes a performance difference. If your belt is stretched from age or wear, your timing essentially it retarded, and this bites into your power and other things. Mine was, thats why I know. If you're competent around cars, buy the Haynes manual, and then buy the belt (do the drive belts while you're at it) and you'll be a worry free driver for 5 years / 100,000kms, which is BMWs reccomended interval for belt change.
For the A/C, check the system out really well for wear or spots that might leak before recharging, or you're basically pissing your money away on refrigerant. Nobody likes to do that ghead . If you can, get it converted to R134a. Much more environmentally friendly.
I'm jealous. I don't have A/C. And it's getting hot out.
After that, if the rumble persists, it could be anything from a motor mount to a timing issue or just age. When you want to refresh a car, do what you do with all cars. Give it all new fluids (don't forget the differential) and filters, do the ignition system, and the belts. You should be alright from there on in.
By the way, congrats on the Bimmer, and . Will we see pics soon?
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Changed the car's name, now it's - Roxanne -1985 325e
As soon as I bother to get my digi cam fixed or buy a new one I'll take some pics. I want a new paint job since it has some rock chips, I'd prefer black. Maybe my best course of action is to drop it off at a shop and just have them replace the plugs, etc. while I work. It would probably be worth the money, I doubt they charge that much for just some basic tuneup maintenance. I could have them check the rumbling while they're at it. That, or magically find time to do everything, which I don't think will happen. All in all I think its a nice car, and once I get it fixed up it'll be real nice. Interior could use some work, the seats aren't in the best condition, but they're not too bad. I just found out my glove box doesn't open. I think the lock is broken, not that I would ever use my glove box anyway
Seats in these cars, especially the cloth sport ones, take a beating in the sidebolsters. I defy you to find a car still on it's original fabrics that has no wear on the driver's sidebolsters.
Taking it to a shop will make sure it gets done right. Make sure you take it to a good shop, someone who knows BMWs. If the guy starts looking for the battery in the wrong end of the car, that's a bad sign. Basic maintenance (cap, wires, plugs, rotor) cost me $700 at the shop because, with the exception of the plugs, all of these components can only be ordered from Bosch, unless you go aftermarket. Bosch is expensive. Good stuff (OEM on most Bimmers), but damn expensive sometimes. Depends what your version of "not that much" is
Let us know what happens. Good luck.
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Changed the car's name, now it's - Roxanne -1985 325e
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