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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 12-06-2009, 01:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy idle problems

Hi, i got a bmw 325i 1990 ive had this issue on my car and can't solve the problem.

Ok first i start the car, so far everything goes well, the idle starts to go from 700 to 500-350 almost dying and goes back up to 700 then sometimes go back down, i press on the gas to make it rev higher and i hear a delay when i press a bit on the gas it s like the air or gas goes in too much or not enough , when i run the car if i dont press on the gas and start braking it goes unstable and the idle goes 700-350-700-400 then goes normal, the idle problem- i was told check the egr valve or your 02 sensor , the way the car sounds for me would be maybe clogged injectors or maybe something else like an adjustement on the gas line from the pedal or something else ...

Where should i start checking injectors, gas filter...

-ive put some brand new bosch platinum+4 spark plugs in
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Old 12-06-2009, 02:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I recomend you get the spark plugs that the car uses originally not +4, the problem you are having may be the egr valve, clean the fuel injector system in case the injectors al clogged, but I think it maybe the throtle body house that conects with the AFM, it may be broken and vacuum may be loss, check vacuum hoses too.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the platinum +4 are recommended for my car cuz the other ones are off the market
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Old 12-13-2009, 10:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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MMMM ok, could you fix the problem? I also remember that this engine run completely sealed, check if the engine in somewhere is missing a screws somewhere, or a seal is broken.
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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idle problem

yeah, I would get those plus 4s out of there asap and put the right plugs in. Then I would look at the idle control valve first...could be gummed up and cause this..next the control box for the icv that could (not likely) be burnt as well...I'd start with the idle control valve...best of luck...beyond that I'd say
the fuel pressure regulator or the coolant temp sensor, both of which I would doubt......Just take the icv out and see if you can blow throw it like a straw..see if you can make the valve move, you should be able to. Remember always blow out, never breath in...try it from all available ports to be sure but never breath in...if it's working OK you will know it......
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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idk why but the idle^problem disappeared well i cleaned the valve cover head cuz it was leaking the i cleaned all the spark plugs and all the holes so thats cool
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think it maybe the throtle body house that conects with the AFM, it may be broken and vacuum may be loss, check vacuum hoses too.
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ohhhhhh dammm when i was going to check the trottle body i saw the the 2 bolts that hold the airbox in place where broken and that it was holding in place by the throttle body arm ill repair that and reply if all goes well
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