3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
Okay, i've been reading up on this stuff, and i've been hoping this problem is just due to my Idle Control Valve. My car's been acting gay on and off for a couple months. What it does, is when you come to a stop, sometimes it will start acting like it's going to stall, but then it catches itself, and revs back up. I've had it into the $tealership, only to have them charge me an arm and a leg, to say "We have no idea". I've had it into a couple other mechanics, too. They have no idea either, because they couldn't reproduce the symptoms. I've just figured out how to reproduce the symptoms. I basically turn everything on. Wipers, Lights, Heater, Blinkers, Radio. I sat there turning stuff on and off for a half hour, and as time goes by, it takes less and less stuff being on to reproduce the symptoms. It gets to where just having the wipers on will make it crap out.
I cleaned the ICV out with carb cleaner a couple days ago, but it's still doing the same thing. Maybe I should just replace it?
see if turning the steering wheel to full lock and pressing the brakes makes it worse. I'm not exactly sure what kinda of power brakes you have (if they are vaccum operated or pump driven, I presume vaccum) now if your brakes are hydraulically boosted from your power steering pump, then what might be happening is when you brake you will put a little more strain on the engine, nothing you would notice under normal conditions, but because the throttle is closed, if the ICV is not working properly it will not adjust quick enough. You might also have a bad sensor somewhere, but if the problem is only when the rpms are falling back to idle and the car runs fine other than that, most likely your on the right track with the ICV
its not the ICV, i know what it is. umm.... its the idle control module, looks like this.
www.bavauto.com has it for 174. i had the same symptoms with my car (325es) and i changed this and it runs like it used to. its located in the glove compartment, first you gotta take out the panel from inside. good luck on the fix. by the way, i got a used one for about $100 bucks from a wrecked car. hope this helps.
I had the same problem on my 325is. The other symptoms I had was that after the car was driven and hot I could not restart it and I would have to wait until it cools. With all this I replaced the fuel pump three times having all the broken pumps burn out. Somehow the wiring got messed up I guess but since I went to dealership and had them replace my pump I don't have any more problems. That is of course with me not listen to the radio any more 'cause now I am paranoid.
__________________ Thinkin' that you are fast doesn't make you fast.
remove your idle control valve and give it a good cleaning in the air passage area with a good quality penetrating oil. blow it clean with low pressure air .its possible the valve is just gummed up and the accuator is unable to phisically overcome the crud. that builds up.
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