I need help with my 325e - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 12:30 AM
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Unhappy I need help with my 325e

it cranks but wont start.i have check everything. any suggustions?
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 12:42 AM
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what, exactly, have you checked?

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#3 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 01:07 AM
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rule number one, check fuses and relays...

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#4 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 01:38 AM
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fuel and spark make car go

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#5 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 04:55 PM
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HAHA thats funny. Check for loose or missing connections, and check your CPS (crankshaft position sensor)

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#6 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 06:35 PM
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Yes, please elaborate more about what you have checked.
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 01:04 AM
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i have checked the fuel pump and fuel pressure. it has a new coil,ecu,sparkplugs,plug wires, cap and rotor,altinator.but still wont start.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 01:23 AM
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Have you check injector wiring? Have you checked CPS?


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#9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 03:16 AM
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again, fuses and relays?

Kyle Sutherland

1995 BMW 540i/6:
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1987 BMW 325es: Face & Butt Lifted/M50tu Swapped*Sold*
1985 VW Scirocco: Too many mods, money pit*Sold*
E34 Plate Filler Wanted!
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 12:49 AM
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The things that come to my mind are, bad main realy, bad DME, AFM has been messed with and is not adjusted properly, dead AFM, not seeing a crank/ignition signal, bad engine temp sensor (different than the sensor that sends the signal to your gauge in the cluster), very little or no gas in the tank.

When did the not starting problem first start? Did you change some parts or mess with anything right before this problem happened? Was the car sitting for a long time? Did the car run rough then not want to restart?

The main thing 90% of people forget when trying to work on their own car is start simple and don't just throw parts at it. If most people would add up the $$$ they spent on parts that didn't fix the issue before they took it into our shop it would more than cover the diag time we spent figuring out their BMW. I see it all the time at the shop I work at. Its usually some guy that is too proud to have a shop work on his wife's/GF's car that ends up bring it in for us to fix cause the hundreds of dollars in parts he threw at it didn't fix it. And very rarely does the parts they replaced help the problem get better.
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#11 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 02:29 PM
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As half said earlier you need three thing fuel spark compression actually test them put a screwdriver or an old plug into a lead put it close to a good earth and crank it, crank it and then pull a plug you should smell fuel if not pull the injectors and rail out re-connect it and crank it see if they spray (don’t blow yourself up) with the plug in you can normally hear compression but if not test it compression testers are cheap enough 10-12bar. Then when you know which ones missing you can start to find out why
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#12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 02:30 PM
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As half said earlier you need three thing fuel spark compression actually test them put a screwdriver or an old plug into a lead put it close to a good earth and crank it, crank it and then pull a plug you should smell fuel if not pull the injectors and rail out re-connect it and crank it see if they spray (don’t blow yourself up) with the plug in you can normally hear compression but if not test it compression testers are cheap enough 10-12bar. Then when you know which ones missing you can start to find out why
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