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I Got Big Problems Now Help!!

3K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  pinnaclebass 
#1 ·
okay i messed up big time. tried resetting oil service light. done this many times in "90 525I with no problems. now I do it on "85 325E and It does not work. probably because of something related to battery replacement. anyhow im over that. but i actually realized i shorted some other pins like probably all of them!! im furious at myself:mad. and now today i started the car to go for a ride to the car wash. and bam!!!! the car starts reves high to 2-3K RPM and stays there awhile, kinda like warm up symptoms. only that should be like 1500 RPM. and temperature gauge is off, its reading low by a whole 1/4..
when the car finally gets out of "warm up stage" it starts to "Breath". like someone is reving it up and letting it go and constantly doing that on time. i dont now how to get it back to normal. im probably going to send to mechanic but i want to know what to expect. car runs and drives, it just consistently revs and is off!!!:conf

its 15 pin diagnosis.
 
#3 ·
well I fixed half the problem I think my temperature gauge is reading again. and now its almost at a good idle. it just keeps reving up and then goes back down. like someone is gassing it. im sure i short something but what? and what would do that? i mean the car starts and shuts off with no problem. ignition is going good. is it the alternator short that is causing that. or an ignition short. possibly a POSITION SENDER + - <<dont know what that refers too though. nothing else could have cause these symptoms of a bad running off engine. only other thing i can think of is its a coincidence and its not related. timing belt is less than 2k miles old.
 
#4 ·
ICV? pull it and clean it... that is a common issue...
 
#5 ·
ok ill try that. only thing is i dont know which component it is. is there a picture or a thread on it. my 85" 325e is probably like your 86. is it tucked under the intake manifold or on the right side of the engine bay. ill take a picture of my engine bay if need be.
 
#8 · (Edited)
recycle shops should have them for cheap....

anywayz... if it was running fine before, then that is maybe not the issue. next line of suspect will be leaks in your intake. Easy diagnostic is to get a can of brake cleaner.... bring your car to IDLE and spray the AFM, the rubber boot between air filter and everywhere else that you might have touched in your repair.

In any case, the IDLE will drop as soon as the leak senses the brake cleaner... and you can do the necessary repairs from there
 
#9 ·
since it is electric that u are dealing with. try this before you do anything else:
DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY AND LET YOUR CAR SIT ALONE WITHOUT POWER FOR AWHILE. A FEW HOURS/OVERNIGHT. THIS WAY, IT ALLOWS YOUR COMPUTER TO RESET TO ZERO & ALL SENSORS/RELAYS ARE RESET TO THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS.

RECONNECT YOUR BATTERY(TAKE NOTE OF YOUR POLARITY) AND RE-START. THAT JUST MIGHT DO THE TRICK FOR YOU. GOOD LUCK
 
#10 ·
ya I did disconnect it and re connected it and the temp gauge started working again. just not the IDLE. I will try and leave it over night see what that may do. if anything ill check the intake control valve. I did not find any leaks in the hoses. plus idle is high leaks would cause it to be low I would assume.
 
#12 ·
ok thanks for the heads up. I was doing some checking up this morning and I disconnected this electrical connector its a small two terminal or prong plug. and it goes into a female receptor that is right under the intake manifold. so i disconnected it. and the idle went even further up and stayed at about 3000 RPM's. with it connected its idle is at about 1300RPM the weirdest thing is its erratic, it revs up and then starves it self and then revs up and continues. and actually that behavior is on time! i tried IVC seems fine. i pulled it and put it back on. the electrics is what has me thinking. thanks for all the ideas and help. Does anyone know what that electric piece is. Its raining right now or i would take a picture.
 
#14 ·
its a weird thing that could have happened but anything is possible there is a litte like screw type thing on the top of the engine i think is either under or next to the throttle control and you can try unscrewing or screwing it to get you idle right oh and buy the way if anyone reading knows what an 86 325e is suppose to idle at could you let me no mine is idling at 750
 
#16 ·
yes i know what the icv is now, and actually bimmerpat I know what screw your talking about on the ICV and i tried turning it and nothing happens. I also un hooked the fuel injection electrical component and nothing happened. then i unhooked the electrical item right under the manifold closest to the air intake and that made the idle sky rocket to 3000 rpms<<<still dont know what that controls. and yes idle should be at around 750 thats what mine did idle at after warm up. i also disconnected the ICV electrical component and nothing happens. i wonder if the icv is messed up. i also found one other thing odd today after it stopped raining. the fuel lines seem to be acting the same as the engine as far as breathing in and out like reving up and down. the idle looks right now staying around 750 only it revs up to 1300 then drops back down and continues doing so. i believe that the electrics are shorted somehow. my problem is at the idle and at the intake from air and fuel mix. just dont know if its mechanical or electric quite yet. im leaning to electric.
 
#17 ·
so if the screw on the ICV does not work at all No CHANGE occurs. than it might be shot. when i did take it off to clean it i shook it in my hand and it kinda made a loose valve noise. just wasnt that bad. seemed like little if at all any movement. i also disconnected an electrical item on the back part of the coolant hose gasket.<<cant think of work right now. it hooks up to all of the intake valves electrical components that are connected under the intake manifold. once i did that the idle dropped considerably and stopped reving up and down. it just was a low idle at around 500rpms.
so im still at a loss hahaha. thanks alot though guys im narrowing down alot i think.
 
#18 ·
QUESTION: pinnaclebass, did you ground Pin 15 to Pin 1 as well, when you tried to reset your oil reminder lights?

If yes, then you may have damaged your ignition control module - the reason why your idle is erratic.

idle speed control unit wil be the module beside the injection brain under right dash.
 
#19 ·
hmmm ok ok! ya, the ignition power supply or ignition control module. <<referring to the same thing. i think that did happen or worse the battery+ got connected to it. what u refer to as idle speed control unit beside the injection brain under right dash, is that in the engine compartment or do you mean in the car, in around the glove box where ECU is? i believe u set it right darkhorse. I just need to know what part needs to be replaced. or how i can check and see for sure if thats the piece. but i believe thats the only thing that could have caused the short with me playing with that. i wonder if i need an all new ignition wire set. or if its just the ignition coil, ignition relay. its what makes sense because of the ignition timing is off! or is it some other piece that im missing
 
#29 ·
wire set - NO, you dnt need a new one
ignition coil - NO, you don't need a new one either
ignition relay/main relay is not the issue either

>>> if any of the above was an issue - car would not even run at all

*IGNITION TIMING on your car is electronically adjusted by the computer. any deviation from the timing secs only means you have an electrical part malfunctioning ;-)
 
#20 ·
arrggg im so mad this happened and that I cause it!!! haha lesson learned dont even touch anything. when things work and are going good. this seems like a big problem now. with all these electrical ignition problems. might be ECU or ignition coil, im not sure what you were referring to though darkhorse. could you elaborate on the "idle speed control unitbeside injection brain under right dash".
 
#21 ·
you know after further evaluation i believe it may be the injection pump solenoid. may explain why fuel delivery is erratic before the fuel injector.. and giving bad idle. idle control Unit?<dont even know where that is housed... all problems are happening after the Air mass meter. and Air seems to be fine. it is more of a fuel delivery issue caused by an electrical problem.
 
#24 ·
i believe the throttle switch is what i disconnected that made the idle sky rocket to 3000 Rpm when connected it just does erratic idle.i believe i know where the MAP sensor is now. its on top of the air box close to the radiator<<closer to the front of car... i actually disconnected this and nothing happened. the throttle switch is what is housed right under the intake manifold right after the air intake to the manifold. its hard to spot unless u look under and see it. < this maybe what is causing the throttle to rev up by itself without use of pedal. what do you guys think??/
i did say injection pump solenoid cause it deals with an engine coolant temperature switch, kinda goes along with first symptoms no temperature gauge. I still dont know if the temp gauge is reading right. it reads now, just have not let car stay on long enough to see if temperature reads all the way up.

to sum it all up ignition control module<<ignition power supply<<same thing just dont know where it is. intake control unit. intake control valve, although i think it is fine. Map sensor which i believe to be fine, plus nothing happened differently when disconnected. injection pump solenoid, dont really know either way<<or where it is!! hahaha!! and last but not least throttle switch, which made idle even worse when dis connected,just not erratic. it hung up at 3000 RPM.
Reference sensor??? do not know what it refers to. and ECU if this was shot though, would the car even fire up at all or drive? would these symptoms exist?
 
#30 ·
you would have 2 sensors on the t-stat housing. the blue one and a brown one. one of those sensors is the temperature sensing unit- sends the temperature signal to ur guage. the other is clled a thermo time switch-responsible for controlling the high rpm on warm-up.

In your case, i suppose these two sensors are fine :)
 
#31 ·
Reference sensor??? do not know what it refers to. and ECU if this was shot though, would the car even fire up at all or drive? would these symptoms exist?

>>> i think you mean crankshaft sensor? that is by the flywheel. Or if ur are referring to a signal reference sensor, that would be that funny wire that is connected to your #1 or #6 sparkplug wire.

>>> ECU defect will display many symptoms. partial defect can be just like what your car is displaying right now. the graver ECU malfunction will shut off fuel supply and ignition supply as well; and of course, car won't start.

Diagnostics is a step by step procedure.... beginning from the sensor inputs and working your way upstream. Don't go blaming everything tht comes to mind because when your mind attacks the prob minus the logic, you will get screwed. :)

Really, i would start by buying a can of carb cleaner brake cleaner($2.50), and spray in and around the afm, rubber boots, ICV, throttle body, and intake manifold... just to make sure there are no intake leaks. any erratic change in idle when u spray definitely means an intake leak. - repair that first.

*btw, your ICV should be humming with ignition ON(it's a DC motor) inside that sucker, and if it isnt humming, then it is dead... or the voltage supply line is dead.

** actually check all ur fuses.... before u start any of what i mentioned above. (it might be jst that) GOOD LUCK!!!
 
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