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3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
yes i know what the icv is now, and actually bimmerpat I know what screw your talking about on the ICV and i tried turning it and nothing happens. I also un hooked the fuel injection electrical component and nothing happened. then i unhooked the electrical item right under the manifold closest to the air intake and that made the idle sky rocket to 3000 rpms<<<still dont know what that controls. and yes idle should be at around 750 thats what mine did idle at after warm up. i also disconnected the ICV electrical component and nothing happens. i wonder if the icv is messed up. i also found one other thing odd today after it stopped raining. the fuel lines seem to be acting the same as the engine as far as breathing in and out like reving up and down. the idle looks right now staying around 750 only it revs up to 1300 then drops back down and continues doing so. i believe that the electrics are shorted somehow. my problem is at the idle and at the intake from air and fuel mix. just dont know if its mechanical or electric quite yet. im leaning to electric.
so if the screw on the ICV does not work at all No CHANGE occurs. than it might be shot. when i did take it off to clean it i shook it in my hand and it kinda made a loose valve noise. just wasnt that bad. seemed like little if at all any movement. i also disconnected an electrical item on the back part of the coolant hose gasket.<<cant think of work right now. it hooks up to all of the intake valves electrical components that are connected under the intake manifold. once i did that the idle dropped considerably and stopped reving up and down. it just was a low idle at around 500rpms.
so im still at a loss hahaha. thanks alot though guys im narrowing down alot i think.
hmmm ok ok! ya, the ignition power supply or ignition control module. <<referring to the same thing. i think that did happen or worse the battery+ got connected to it. what u refer to as idle speed control unit beside the injection brain under right dash, is that in the engine compartment or do you mean in the car, in around the glove box where ECU is? i believe u set it right darkhorse. I just need to know what part needs to be replaced. or how i can check and see for sure if thats the piece. but i believe thats the only thing that could have caused the short with me playing with that. i wonder if i need an all new ignition wire set. or if its just the ignition coil, ignition relay. its what makes sense because of the ignition timing is off! or is it some other piece that im missing
arrggg im so mad this happened and that I cause it!!! haha lesson learned dont even touch anything. when things work and are going good. this seems like a big problem now. with all these electrical ignition problems. might be ECU or ignition coil, im not sure what you were referring to though darkhorse. could you elaborate on the "idle speed control unitbeside injection brain under right dash".
you know after further evaluation i believe it may be the injection pump solenoid. may explain why fuel delivery is erratic before the fuel injector.. and giving bad idle. idle control Unit?<dont even know where that is housed... all problems are happening after the Air mass meter. and Air seems to be fine. it is more of a fuel delivery issue caused by an electrical problem.
i believe the throttle switch is what i disconnected that made the idle sky rocket to 3000 Rpm when connected it just does erratic idle.i believe i know where the MAP sensor is now. its on top of the air box close to the radiator<<closer to the front of car... i actually disconnected this and nothing happened. the throttle switch is what is housed right under the intake manifold right after the air intake to the manifold. its hard to spot unless u look under and see it. < this maybe what is causing the throttle to rev up by itself without use of pedal. what do you guys think??/
i did say injection pump solenoid cause it deals with an engine coolant temperature switch, kinda goes along with first symptoms no temperature gauge. I still dont know if the temp gauge is reading right. it reads now, just have not let car stay on long enough to see if temperature reads all the way up.
to sum it all up ignition control module<<ignition power supply<<same thing just dont know where it is. intake control unit. intake control valve, although i think it is fine. Map sensor which i believe to be fine, plus nothing happened differently when disconnected. injection pump solenoid, dont really know either way<<or where it is!! hahaha!! and last but not least throttle switch, which made idle even worse when dis connected,just not erratic. it hung up at 3000 RPM.
Reference sensor??? do not know what it refers to. and ECU if this was shot though, would the car even fire up at all or drive? would these symptoms exist?
does anyone know what the electrical connection on the T stat housing is? it is behind the hoses hidden on back side of housing farthest away from radiator* it connects to other electrical intake connections under manifold of engine.
when i disconnected that electrical component on T stat housing the car ran low idle but retarded and high emissions. probably needs to stay connected!!!!!
behind the glove box... somewhere beside(or around) the ECU/ECM(injection brain). If you take out the glove box, you'll see the brain right away screwed to the underside of the right side dash
hmmm ok ok! ya, the ignition power supply or ignition control module. <<referring to the same thing. i think that did happen or worse the battery+ got connected to it. what u refer to as idle speed control unit beside the injection brain under right dash, is that in the engine compartment or do you mean in the car, in around the glove box where ECU is? i believe u set it right darkhorse. I just need to know what part needs to be replaced. or how i can check and see for sure if thats the piece. but i believe thats the only thing that could have caused the short with me playing with that. i wonder if i need an all new ignition wire set. or if its just the ignition coil, ignition relay. its what makes sense because of the ignition timing is off! or is it some other piece that im missing
wire set - NO, you dnt need a new one
ignition coil - NO, you don't need a new one either
ignition relay/main relay is not the issue either
>>> if any of the above was an issue - car would not even run at all
*IGNITION TIMING on your car is electronically adjusted by the computer. any deviation from the timing secs only means you have an electrical part malfunctioning ;-)
does anyone know what the electrical connection on the T stat housing is? it is behind the hoses hidden on back side of housing farthest away from radiator* it connects to other electrical intake connections under manifold of engine.
you would have 2 sensors on the t-stat housing. the blue one and a brown one. one of those sensors is the temperature sensing unit- sends the temperature signal to ur guage. the other is clled a thermo time switch-responsible for controlling the high rpm on warm-up.
In your case, i suppose these two sensors are fine :-)
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