Head Removal

[85-325e]

I have no tools and my experience with car repair extends as far as changing the valve seals on a honda civic in high school auto class. However, my BMW now has an issue either with the cylinder head or the gasket. I want more than anything to work on it myself. I'm good with my hands and am going to get it done come hell or high water. Could anyone give me some suggestions on what tools I will need and what kind of problems I might run into in removing the cylinder head. It is a 1985 325e. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

[e30fanm3]

Make sure you get new head bolts, cause they are stretch bolts and you cant reuse them. The old head bolts are a big torx so make sure you have a set, i dont know exactly what size. The new bolts will be regular 17mm bolts. You also need to get a torque wrench from somewhere, cause it has to be correct on those head bolts, and dont torque them down all in a row. If the first one you do is on the front of the head, do the very back one second to spread out the pressure on the gasket. Other than that it is easy. What is it doin, burnin coolant?

[85-325e]

The coolant is getting into the oil. It's winter so there's always a billowing cloud out of the tailpipe. I don't think the leak has reached the combustion chambers yet, but I can't say for certain. If it has it's minimal.

[Kowalski]

first off you dont torque from either ends first, you torque from the center out alternating sides and top and bottom. if its torques bolts its 22 lb/ft and if they're hex bolts then its 30 lb/ft and then wait 15 min and then 44 lb/ft and then bring the engine to normal temp and turn the bolt another 25 degrees. also your going to tneed to take off all the intake and throttle body stuff, i believe its all 10 mm 11 mm and 13mm bolts, i could be mistaken tho. second, you will need new head bolts yes, you will also want to get a top end kit (all gaskets and seals for the top end) and replace them if you havn't done so. and before you take the head off make sure the engine is at TDC (top dead center) otherwise instalation will be a pain in the ass. you will also need to take off the header or exhaust manifold, and you will want new gaskets for those too. they should all come with the top end kit. also put piece into a bag, and lable it, cause otherwise the rebuild will be a pain in the ass, and if ytour not getting new lifters or otehr moving parts put each one into its own bag and lable it, because they have wear patterns and you want them going back into the same pllace they came out of, because the wear is going to be specific to that spot. remember you can't over lable. also take pictures if you have a digital camera. and buy a repair manual wherever you can.

[85-325e]

what constitutes top dead center for a 6 cylinder engine? If one cylinder is at TDC won't at least 4 others be way off?

[e30fanm3]

its not just one cylinder, the camshaft and crank shaft have to be at top dead. there are marks on the pullys that indicate it is at TDC

[Kowalski]

Originally posted by e30fanm3@Jan 21 2005, 06:20 PM
its not just one cylinder, the camshaft and crank shaft have to be at top dead. there are marks on the pullys that indicate it is at TDC

[snapback]276383[/snapback]

when the first piston is at TDC everything is at TDC unless you are 180 degreese out, which means you rotate engine all the way again until the number 1 piston is at the top. and yes the pulleys do indicate TDC

[Ivan413]

Umm this thread is 7 years old


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[Lord Vader]

Ivan, when you see people necro post like this, just report the post. The moderation team will lock the thread if nessecary.

[witeshark]

Old thread, closed