Fuse Box/Relay Diagram for '84 325e - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 08:27 PM
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Can anybody post one? I am doing the jerky wiper routine, and thought I'd start with the relay before I go into the wiper-motor. Seems like theres a missing relay and a couple missing fuses too. I have found some fuse-box diagrams, but they don't seem to match mine.



Mark

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#2 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 10:36 PM
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http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/data...0138&Section=02





There are three relays outside the fusebox.

they can be moved to different locations.

The only way to know is to check the wire colors.

The five prong is the main relay
RD
RD/WT
GN
BR
BL/RD

Fuel pump relay
RD
RD/WT
GN/VI
BR/GN

o2 sensor heater relay
GN/VI
GN/YL
GY/BR
GN/BU

On the fuel pump relay, short from pin #30 to #87.

This should cause the pump to run if fuse #11 is good.

Later,
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#3 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 10:40 PM
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But if the wipers are just having a non standard wipe and jerky the issue is in the lubrication of the motor and linkage assembly.

Later,
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 03:29 PM
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Thanks, Ron. Yeah, the wipers were working ok, then gradually started jerking, then moved less and less, sometimes moving spontaneously when the car was running with the wipers switched off, and they even twitched a bit after i'd shut the car off sometimes. Now they do nothing. Sounds like the lube problem to me. Thanks again.

Mark

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#5 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 05:29 PM
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Ok, found a way to open up the motor without removing it. The plastic cap covering the circular contact area just popped off, and I was able to clean most of the grease out of there using a cloth and brake cleaner. Put the cap back on and tested the wiper: nothing.

It looks like i'm getting power to the motor, but nothing is happening. I've got to test the motor for resistance now to see if its shot. Any tricks to test it without removing it? If not, I'm gonna have to get it out, and I just don't know how to separate it from the linkage and get it out of the plenum. I've gone to BP's page with pics on how to do it, but he has a 318 and the setup looks different to my '84 325e.

Thanks in advance,

Mark ghead

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