Fuel Pump Out? - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-21-2005, 07:38 PM
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I think my fuel pump is out, but I'm not 100% sure.

Here's what happened:

2 days ago I was driving when I noticed my water temp gauge was acting funny. It was steady most of the time, but then would just randomly bounce back and forth. I just let it go hoping it would be better the next day. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the problem or not.

Yesterday, while in traffic, I downshifted and noticed a significant drop in power, followed by roughness in the engine and jerkiness. It steadily got worse. It was idling pretty rough, and when I got around 2500RPM the engine would jerk around. Above that it was fine until about 3500RPM when it did the same thing. It was pretty violent shaking. It finally quit on me and I coasted into a parking lot and had it towed to my house later that night.

Today, I went to start it and it fired right up. I'm not quite sure what the deal is. I let it get up to temperature, then went around the block, and it started getting really rough again. I just decided to part it.

Does anyone know what's wrong with it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Nick

1987 325is 132k
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-21-2005, 10:00 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
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I'd check for coolant getting into the oil. I just had this happen and had to get a new cylinder head ghead

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#3 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 08:36 AM
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Here is the least expensive thing you can do, buy two bottles of HEET gas line ant-freeze, Dry Gas, Water Out (any of these) and drop the contents in your fuel tank. You MAY have condensation in the fuel and since water will not burn it will give you some crazy symptoms. This may not be your porblem but it is a good place to start.
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 04:54 PM
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With some help from my friend's dad, we found some more symptoms.

Today it started up and ran just fine. We let it get up to temperature and drove it around the block a couple of times. What we noticed was around 3600RPMs the temperature gauge would begin to swing back and forth from red to blue, and the car would start "bucking." When I would depress the clutch to shift, the temp gauge would go crazy once again. It did this several times. We parked it and let it continue to run for a few minutes before driving it again. This second time we went out, the temperature gauge would still swing, but the car wasn't bucking and jerking like it did the time before. The gauge would also swing when I would clutch to shift.

My friend's dad knows way more about this than I do, but I think what I need to ask is: is there any connection between the temp gauge and the ECU that would cause the car to buck like it was?

Also, is there any kind of diagnostic tool that uses the check engine light to flash a code telling what's wrong? To be honest, I'm not sure that my check engine light even works. All the warning lights to the right of the steering wheel come on when the key is on "run" but the engine isn't on, and the lights on the left don't come on.
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 87E30is@Jun 22 2005, 01:54 PM
With some help from my friend's dad, we found some more symptoms.

Today it started up and ran just fine. We let it get up to temperature and drove it around the block a couple of times. What we noticed was around 3600RPMs the temperature gauge would begin to swing back and forth from red to blue, and the car would start "bucking." When I would depress the clutch to shift, the temp gauge would go crazy once again. It did this several times. We parked it and let it continue to run for a few minutes before driving it again. This second time we went out, the temperature gauge would still swing, but the car wasn't bucking and jerking like it did the time before. The gauge would also swing when I would clutch to shift.

My friend's dad knows way more about this than I do, but I think what I need to ask is: is there any connection between the temp gauge and the ECU that would cause the car to buck like it was?

Also, is there any kind of diagnostic tool that uses the check engine light to flash a code telling what's wrong? To be honest, I'm not sure that my check engine light even works. All the warning lights to the right of the steering wheel come on when the key is on "run" but the engine isn't on, and the lights on the left don't come on.
[snapback]356041[/snapback]

if you find out whats wrong, tell me.. its a fuel delivery issue, i was experiencing something VERY similar, its between 3600-4000rpm, and after i get past 4000rpm the engine TAKES OFF, like a bat out of hell.

it sorta fixed itself and revs alot smoother now that i installed my crane digital ignition yesterday, but its still down on power. i think the more powerful/acurate spark is almost, overcomming improper fuel delivery. still hesitates a *small* ammount at 3800rpm.

my temp gauge from time to time goes crazy too.

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#6 (permalink) Old 06-22-2005, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by nukeduster+Jun 22 2005, 05:26 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nukeduster @ Jun 22 2005, 05:26 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-87E30is@Jun 22 2005, 01:54 PM
With some help from my friend's dad, we found some more symptoms.

Today it started up and ran just fine. We let it get up to temperature and drove it around the block a couple of times. What we noticed was around 3600RPMs the temperature gauge would begin to swing back and forth from red to blue, and the car would start "bucking." When I would depress the clutch to shift, the temp gauge would go crazy once again. It did this several times. We parked it and let it continue to run for a few minutes before driving it again. This second time we went out, the temperature gauge would still swing, but the car wasn't bucking and jerking like it did the time before. The gauge would also swing when I would clutch to shift.

My friend's dad knows way more about this than I do, but I think what I need to ask is: is there any connection between the temp gauge and the ECU that would cause the car to buck like it was?

Also, is there any kind of diagnostic tool that uses the check engine light to flash a code telling what's wrong? To be honest, I'm not sure that my check engine light even works. All the warning lights to the right of the steering wheel come on when the key is on "run" but the engine isn't on, and the lights on the left don't come on.
[snapback]356041[/snapback]

if you find out whats wrong, tell me.. its a fuel delivery issue, i was experiencing something VERY similar, its between 3600-4000rpm, and after i get past 4000rpm the engine TAKES OFF, like a bat out of hell.

it sorta fixed itself and revs alot smoother now that i installed my crane digital ignition yesterday, but its still down on power. i think the more powerful/acurate spark is almost, overcomming improper fuel delivery. still hesitates a *small* ammount at 3800rpm.

my temp gauge from time to time goes crazy too.
[snapback]356049[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]


Well I had the temp problem with my stang where my gauge would go all crazy. Try to change out your thermostat and see if that works, I eventually needed to change my water pump, my gauge would show it maxed out in the red.

It's stock. WHAT!
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#7 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 12:28 AM
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The temp guage might be caused by a dead battery in the dash head. When they die, the needle has a tendency to bounce around pretty good.

With regards to the roughness, I don't think it sounds like a fuel issue, because when it's cold, it's fine, right? I think this is electronics-related. Check your mass air flow sensor, and idle control valve for starters, and see if they're still functioning correctly. Any other sensors that haven't been replaced in a long while?

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#8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 12:06 PM
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Yeah.. it definitely seems like an electronics issue now that I've investigated a little bit more. Both fuel pumps appear to be working just fine.

As far as sensors go, I have no idea when they were changed last. The car didn't come with any kind of service/maintenance records. I bought it when it had about 113k on it. I will take a look at that other stuff you mentioned.

thanks for your help
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2005, 08:59 PM
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No problem. Also, I don't know if you do your own work or you get a shop to do it, but see if you can figure out when the O2 sensor was last changed. That will help smooth out the car's running and, if the current one is bad, will up your mileage considerably.

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#10 (permalink) Old 06-24-2005, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by offabroadway@Jun 23 2005, 05:59 PM
No problem. Also, I don't know if you do your own work or you get a shop to do it, but see if you can figure out when the O2 sensor was last changed. That will help smooth out the car's running and, if the current one is bad, will up your mileage considerably.
[snapback]356441[/snapback]
i popped in different fuel injectors yesterday and it seems to have fixed my problem. just as a heads up.

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