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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 01-05-2005, 02:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have a 1989 325i with 90,000 miles. I bought the car recently from an original owner who I've known for some time, so I know the car has not been abused. My problem is that the 325i seems to use quite a bit of oil. Since my last oil change, I've put on about 1,000 miles and it has already used about 1 1/2 quarts.

I have a performance chip installed, but I don't drive the car hard continuously. The car runs very well and I don't think the head gasket is blown. The compression is to spec and the shop I go to said that it may the be valve seals, which would be expensive to replace. He suggested doing a seal rejuvenation flush first, which would cost about $100 CDN.

Any comments?
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Old 01-05-2005, 03:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem with my 1987 325i last summer. A very good mechanic came up with the same type of potential solutions.

What I discovered was that changing the plugs and ignition system wires corrected the oil consumption problem.

You may want to try that.

Redneck M5


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Quote:
Originally posted by ye12@Jan 5 2005, 01:40 PM
I have a 1989 325i with 90,000 miles. I bought the car recently from an original owner who I've known for some time, so I know the car has not been abused. My problem is that the 325i seems to use quite a bit of oil. Since my last oil change, I've put on about 1,000 miles and it has already used about 1 1/2 quarts.

I have a performance chip installed, but I don't drive the car hard continuously. The car runs very well and I don't think the head gasket is blown. The compression is to spec and the shop I go to said that it may the be valve seals, which would be expensive to replace. He suggested doing a seal rejuvenation flush first, which would cost about $100 CDN.

Any comments?
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for your response Redneck. I checked my mileage again and I had put on 2,500 miles after my oil change and not 1,000 as I stated earlier. I'm not sure how changing the plugs and wires would reduce oil consumption, but it's good to hear that the flush corrected the oil consumption. I'll give that a try.

Quote:
Originally posted by Redneck M5+Jan 5 2005, 03:43 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Redneck M5 @ Jan 5 2005, 03:43 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>I had a similar problem with my 1987 325i last summer. A very good mechanic came up with the same type of potential solutions.

What I discovered was that changing the plugs and ignition system wires corrected the oil consumption problem.

You may want to try that.

Redneck M5


ghead <!--QuoteBegin-ye12
@Jan 5 2005, 01:40 PM
I have a 1989 325i with 90,000 miles.* I bought the car recently from an original owner who I've known for some time, so I know the car has not been abused.* My problem is that the 325i seems to use quite a bit of oil.* Since my last oil change, I've put on about 1,000 miles and it has already used about 1 1/2 quarts.*

I have a performance chip installed, but I don't drive the car hard continuously. The car runs very well and I don't think the head gasket is blown.* The compression is to spec and the shop I go to said that it may the be valve seals, which would be expensive to replace.* He suggested doing a seal rejuvenation flush first, which would cost about $100 CDN.

Any comments?
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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what weight oil are you using, you might want to switch to 20/50 i think is what we used on our 325i to fix the oil problem
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Old 01-06-2005, 11:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by alanh@Jan 6 2005, 03:01 PM
what weight oil are you using, you might want to switch to 20/50 i think is what we used on our 325i to fix the oil problem
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The shop I go to put in 15/40. I live in Vancouver, BC and only drive my car during the Summer and Fall months where the temperature is between 50*F and 80*F. Would 20/50 be okay for this ambient temp?
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Old 01-07-2005, 08:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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its crazy i know but these e30's love copper plugs and hate the platinum...

get the stock plugs and youll see a big difference.

i intslled the platinum and they sucked after a few miles, i went back to bosche copper and my whole ride smoothed a bit and mileage went up too.

i use straight 30wt and dont leak a drop. i do burn a quart every 2kmiles though i drive really hard alot...i mean really really hard...like always being the first one through any light...i always look for yellow runners and not the first one across the first crosswalk but most always first one through the intersections..

not to steal the thread but is it okay to put a little extra oil in...say whenever the L.E.D. lights up do you always add a quart.

and how come sometimes the check engine light comes on when going down a really steep hill, then goes off when i tap the gas?
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Old 01-07-2005, 02:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by idanity@Jan 7 2005, 08:52 AM
its crazy i know but these e30's love copper plugs and hate the platinum...

get the stock plugs and youll see a big difference.

i intslled the platinum and they sucked after a few miles, i went back to bosche copper and my whole ride smoothed a bit and mileage went up too.

i use straight 30wt and dont leak a drop. i do burn a quart every 2kmiles though i drive really hard alot...i mean really really hard...like always being the first one through any light...i always look for yellow runners and not the first one across the first crosswalk but most always first one through the intersections..

not to steal the thread but is it okay to put a little extra oil in...say whenever the L.E.D. lights up do you always add a quart.

and how come sometimes the check engine light comes on when going down a really steep hill, then goes off when i tap the gas?
[snapback]266208[/snapback]
Stock copper plugs work best? I installed Bosch +4's and don't seem to be having any problems, but I did read in a post that if the prongs break off, then it may damage the valve. Any comments?
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