3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
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Hey, just playing around with the idea of doing an engine swap in my '89 325iC. Thinking mostly about putting in the S14 motor, since its the same chassis type and would probably be the easiest "S" motor to fit.
Some questions: are the engine bays in all E30's (including the M3s) the same size?
Are the motor mounts hard to change/deal with?
What else needs to be replaced for an engine swap besides tachometer (redline of 7000 or 7500 i forget instead of 6250 currently)?
Thanks!
__________________ Alpinweiss 1989 BMW 325i Convertible
And on top of that, didn't the s14 come in the nissan? WTF if your thinking of putting it in your BMW.
And the s14 revs to 7800, just to let u know.
Anyhoo, staying on subject, depending on width between mount brackets on the motor, you wouldn't really need to change much at all. If you're going auto to manual, thats a different story.
Dave
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Two wheels or Four, I'm happy as long as the throttle is pinned.
you already have an I motor, you ought to just think about hopping that up. those can be made to scoot for far less than the cost of a motor swap, esp. with an M motor......
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Plus the S14 motor isn't exactly a monster of an engine. Yes it does have more hp, but it was meant to stay in the E30 M3. Also an S14 doesn't do well with modifications. Also they have to be rebuilt about every 100,000 miles. I would stick with the engine you have and rebuild that, and get new cams and bore it out maybe.
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Black 4 door 1990 325i
15"x7.5 Ronal LS-wrapped in 205/50-15 Bridgestone Potenza G009
yes, but it is very damn heavy...........i would personally weigh the costs....
I motor with:
-M throttle body convo w/MAF conversion
-bigger injectors
-chip
-header with exhaust
-cam (and if you pulled the head to do it) decked head with mild port and polish
-lightened flywheel
-underdrive pulleys
-p/s delete (if you want to take it that far and get a couple of extra ponies)
and for big dollars
-don't deck the head, and rock two headgaskets and go turbo.
-or deck the head and do the diesel bottom end
VS>
doing the e30 M motor swap or the heavy s50 swap
personally i would hop up the I motor, it's a good base from which to start from......or you could always give to me to drop in my e21, she is only getting an e motor right now....and she asked me the other day if she could have an I motor for Christmas instead......
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there are some companies out there that mess around with the m20 and make it a 3ltr through a conversion of parts obviously, you might want to look into that instead, or just rebuild it and get a solid turbo kit for it, the m engine is outrageously expensive to upkeep and to upgrade, and you dont really get that much of a hp dif...seambmw.com is a company that does the m20 conversion i am sure there are others too. good luck
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wow thanks guys, youre right, the s14 motor would be pretty expensive in the short and long run, but talk to me more about the s50 and turbo for the 2.5i motor
__________________ Alpinweiss 1989 BMW 325i Convertible
there are some companies out there that mess around with the m20 and make it a 3ltr through a conversion of parts obviously, you might want to look into that instead, or just rebuild it and get a solid turbo kit for it, the m engine is outrageously expensive to upkeep and to upgrade, and you dont really get that much of a hp dif...seambmw.com is a company that does the m20 conversion i am sure there are others too. good luck
yes i was reading about this......i have also heard the oldschooler trick of swapping in a diesel bottom end to make it stroker, great to build on too if you want to add boost at a later date.
and the more i think about this, the more i am thinking about doing it <_<
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Haven't I read that you can do an Eta block and i head? Or am I mistaken? If so... you can get the torque of the longer throw pistons, and the HP of the i head/cam/valves. And of course there are handling issues that can make your car FEEL faster! M3 upper control arms, Bilstein Sport Struts, IE stage 2 springs, strut tower bars, sway bars and sway bar supports, camber plates... yadda yadda yadda! A good combo of all of these will give you a "seat of the pants" opinion that your car is faster... and on a track, it WOULD be!
Just throwing in my 2 cents!
Josh W.
__________________ Not currently on the Bimmer kick. Drivin' a 2003 Silver Civic at the moment, but I am STILL the Founding Member of the "325eXTATIC You're my hero" club.
Quote:
Originally Posted by <b>superdeadman</b><br>Josh W. IS my hero!
Originally Posted by <b>JoeMadoo</b><br>325eXTATIC, you're my hero...
Originally Posted by <b>Moosepuck</b><br>Oh yeah... 325eXTATIC...you're my hero...
Originally Posted by <b>e30dream</b><br>325eXTATIC....youre my hero.
actually the only difference between the E and the I (if i am not mistaken) is the head. i heard you can swap heads, but i do believe the FI system is a bit different and you have to have the I goodies to make it work.
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