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3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
does anyone know where to get a full list of engine fault codes for the M20 motor. and does anyone know what a lambda control 1 fault is and if it would cause my engine to idle like shite. any help will be appreciated.
"Lambda Sensors" are oxygen sensors. They measure how much oxygen is coming out of the combustion chamber after combustion has taken place. The computer looks at the input signals and changes your short term fuel trim accordingly. A really high/low voltage reading from the sensor, or no reading at all could trigger this code. A lazy 02 sensor could be the issue and it just needs to be replaced, or you're running too rich or too lean. If you're running too rich at idle, your idle might go a bit lower, but it's pretty unlikely. A lean condition usually causes a higher than normal idle.
Last edited by and0pand0 : 04-23-2006 at 11:35 PM.
The later e30 motronic 1.1 has only 4 main trouble codes.
1 flash-Air flow sensor malfunction.
2 flashes-Oxygen sensor malfunction.
3 flashes-Coolant Temp. malfunction.
4 flashes-Throttle switch malfunction.
"Lambda control 1 fault" isn't an E30 trouble code this is found on cars with motronic 1.3 and newer. It means that there is a problem with the O2 sensor or "Oxygen sensor control out of range" Replace your O2 sensor/s and look for dirty contacts at the ECU. With out an exact year and model makes it hard to help....
Last edited by Starmavin : 04-23-2006 at 11:39 PM.
1222 is the fault code that i'm getting. What is 1222 Oxygen sensor control range limit and how do i repair that? Is this fault giving me a bad idle, or is my bad idle giving me this fault? thoughts?
i replaced the O2 sensor already and i still get the 1222 fault. any suggestions on where to start next? also, after you hit the gas pedal 5 times and it starts blinking codes, do you have to do anything to get the next fault code to come up or will it do it automaticly if more codes are in there. thanks a lot. dont what to bother anyone. just want a smooth idle.
There should be two, one before the cat and one after. Did you get an OEM fit or a universal fit? Also disconnect the battery for 25 sec after making changes.
there is only one O2 sensor on my car and it comes before the cat. and i just disconnected the battery for a minute to let everything power down and when i hooked it back up and started it, it almost seemed to run worse. and i still get the 1222 fault. ???. any other thoughts or am i on my own. please help.
there is only one O2 sensor on my car and it comes before the cat. and i just disconnected the battery for a minute to let everything power down and when i hooked it back up and started it, it almost seemed to run worse. and i still get the 1222 fault. ???. any other thoughts or am i on my own. please help.
I am trying to help you if you want to be on your own I can help you there too..... Now be PAIENT. Troubleshooting in person is hard enough, over the web is 100 times harder.
To figure this out we need to go over what can cause this code. 1222 is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds.
Possible causes: Faulty O2 sensor or bad contacts to O2, fuel tank ran empty or very low, injectors bad or clogged, incorrect fuel pressure (clogged fuel filter, bad regulator, faulty fuel pump), engine temperature sensor bad, intake or exhaust leak, fuel evap control bad or broken vac lines, air flow meter defective and/or the combustion is being messed up by mechanical failure (worn out spark plugs, low compression, intake/exhaust valves, bad plugs, wires, cap rotor, etc)
Now if you have a rough idle and code 1222 this can both be caused by the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) Replace ($18) or test the ECT with an ohm meeter then we can go from there....
Last edited by Starmavin : 04-24-2006 at 11:57 PM.
If your ECT is bad, you'll be in open loop all the time, and the computer will ignore lambda sensor readings. Think of the ECT as a switch that tells the computer "OK, start reading the sensors and tweak fuel trim now!" once it gets hot enough. The computer doesn't go into closed loop until the 02 sensor reaches 600 degrees F and the ECT hits 160 or so. Your car will run rich when you're in open loop, but it shouldn't screw with your idle I don't belive, UNLESS you're already running too rich from something else (restricted return line/bad FPR/leaking injector ETC.) OR the ECT isn't reading anything at all. Usually the car will stall when cold when the ECT is shot.
Not to insult anyone, but I wouldn't have replaced the 02 right away if I were you. You should TEST something before you replace it. Backprobe the 02 sensor with a multimeter on a 0-1v scale. Spray some starting fluid or propane into the intake and see if the voltage jumps up. It should go up to about 800-900mv. If it passes this test, then try unplugging a vacuum line and see if the voltage drops to below 450mv. It should. If it passes both tests, chances are you have a good working 02 sensor that is responding to oxygen readings well. Remember, the HIGHER the voltage, the more RICH you are running and vise versa. These are actual tests people do in the automotive field.
After these tests, you need to check your fuel pressure, then check your manifold vacuum with a vacuum guage. Check your spark plugs. Find out if you're rich or lean and we can go from there. Rough idle problems are rarely caused by a bad 02 sensor ESPECIALLY if it's in open loop (basically, when the car is cold)!
OBDII systems use at least 2 02 sensors. The first one is for fuel trim, and the second one measures catalytic converter efficiency. Don't think many OBDI cars have 2 02 sensors? Not sure on this one...
Hope this helps!
Last edited by and0pand0 : 04-25-2006 at 12:43 AM.
Code 1222 is set because of wild variations in rich and lean, back probing the O2 (if you can with out damaging it) will have you staring at your mulitmeter like a monkey looking at a math problem (your readings will be all over the place) The ECT can be faulty or have dirty contacts that read high resistance making the computer think the motor is hoter than it really is (i.e. closed loop) the computer will try compensate for the "hot" condition but the O2 readings will counter them causing poor power, economy, and rough idle.
And yes my brothers 89 325i has two O2. I'll never forget this cause I had to cut them out due to the fact the former owner never changed them. That again is why I will allways sujest that any code that involves the O2 sensor, to change them first.
Last edited by Starmavin : 04-25-2006 at 09:28 PM.
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